bilton

Muzzle training your dog

Wed, 30 Jul 2025 15:59:24 GMT

How to get your dog used to wearing a muzzle

As vets, we see a wide range of behaviours of our canine patients when they come to see us. Most are fairly ambivalent towards our treatment/examinations - a few love coming to see us (whatever we end up having to do to them!), but we do also see some animals that are very frightened or nervous of their veterinary interactions.

These dogs can be extremely challenging to treat as there is a mismatch between what we WANT to do and what we are ABLE to do. In some situations, it may be that we can't do certain things (eg nail clipping or blood samples) or it may be that even doing basic things such as a routine clinical examination or vaccinations.

What is a muzzle for?

A muzzle, is just a physical barrier to stop a nervous/anxious/frightened/aggressive dog from being able to bite someone. It is a very important piece of equipment as it can ensure that we do our job as safely as possible. It is not acceptable for vets or owners to get bitten and it is "not part of our job" - something we hear quite regularly!

What a muzzle does do, is to physically stop people getting hurt. What is doesn't do it actually address the reasons WHY we may need a muzzle in the first place. This is usually fear.

So really - just popping a muzzle on, whilst safer - doesn't make the pet's experience of coming to the vets any better.

It is ok just to put the muzzle on at the vets?

Essentially no. In a dog that is known to need a muzzle, we really don't advise that we utilise the muzzle just in the vets. By the time they are in the consulting room, they are often quite worked up and already in a state of extreme anxiousness. We often find that it can then be very stressful to try and put a muzzle on at this point.

Dogs start to think muzzle = something horrible about to happen.

How can we utilise the muzzle better and try to improve these dog's experiences?

Getting dogs used to wearing a muzzle is vital to the success of ongoing care. We usually suggest a few basic steps:

Getting the dogs used to wearing a muzzle at home and in a non-threatening/veterinary fashion (see below)
Allowing the muzzle to be on the dog BEFORE they come to the vets.
The veterinary staff trying to make the experience as positive as possible. This can be further done by:
Having a clear list of problems.
Utilising photos/videos that could be taken at home and may be easier to visualise than examining the pet
Shaving/cutting any fur away at home to allow us to see problems easier in the consulting room.
Being aware that we may have limited ability to do tests/examinations in some dogs compared to others.
Prioritise what is necessary versus desired . For example - sampling a possible skin tumour is necessary, whereas nail clipping may not be essential, and could really stress an anxious dog out.
Utilising "Chill protocol" drugs to minimise fear and facilitate easier handling/examination. THESE DRUGS CAN BE GAME CHANGING FOR MANY PATIENTS.
Consider waiting the car park, or even asking the vet to start the appointment outside.
Consider "familiarisation visits" where the pet may come to the surgery when they are well and perhaps just come into the practice, have some fuss and treats with the staff and then go out again without having anything really done to them. This to try and reinforce some positive feelings about coming to the vets!

Muzzle Training

There are some really good training videos below about how to start this process at home.

If you need further support - feel free to come and talk to one of our nurses AHEAD of your appointment so we can best advise you on how we can all get the best out of the veterinary care that we offer.

Please be aware, that the safety of our staff, as well as you as owners and other people/pets in the building, is absolutely paramount. We are quite within our rights to refuse to examine/treat dogs that we deem are not safe to do so.

Any client who refuses to allow us to muzzle their pet, or can't get a muzzle on their pet themselves, may be asked to leave and come back another day with "chill medication" on board. In extreme circumstances, or cases of non-compliance, clients may be de-registered from our practice.

Cat Microchipping

Wed, 06 Mar 2024 19:02:03 GMT

Microchipping law comes into effect on 10th JUNE 2024

New Government regulations come in to force shortly. As has previously happened with dogs a few years ago, it will now become a legal requirement to have your cat microchipped by June 10th 2024. If your cat isn't chipped by this date, you have 21 days to comply or you could face a fine of up to £500. In the future, cats must be chipped by the time they are 20 weeks old.

For more information please visit: https://www.gov.uk/get-your-dog-cat-microchipped

Who can insert a microchip?

The chips have to be inserted by a trained professional, in order to do it safely and effectively. As well as veterinary practices, some charities, rescue or rehoming centres may also be able to perform this.

Are all microchips the same?

Not necessarily! It is important to use high-quality microchips that will not fail/malfunction and the database used to record the information should be one that is reputable and easy for vets/council/charites to access quickly and easily to obtain ownership information in case of emergency. We use the " Backhome" chips (by Virbac) and the database is the UK PETtrac Microchip Database

How are the microchips inserted?

The microchips are inserted through a needle that goes through the skin in the scruff of the neck just behind the shoulder-blades. Most cats tolerate this quite well and it is usually done in a routine consultation and takes a matter of a few minutes.

Your contact details are then linked to the microchip number and recorded instantly on the database.

What happens if my cat won't tolerate the microchip needle?

There are going to be a few cats, where their temperament may preclude the easy (and safe!) insertion of a microchip. In these cases, we can prescribe a medication that they can be given at home prior to the appointment, that makes them much less likely to be reactive. Please discuss this scenario with one of our vets/nurses in advance if you think this is going to be likely.

How much does it cost?

As this is becoming a legal requirement - we are offering the microchip and registration at a discounted price of £18.

How can I book an appointment?

Please call reception on 01788 812650 to make an appointment with one of our nursing team to take advantage of this offer. Thank you!

Understanding the ban on American Bully XL dogs in the UK

Wed, 08 Nov 2023 09:15:10 GMT

What's the situation?

American Bully XLs have been officially banned in England and Wales. Starting from 1 February 2024, ownership will be illegal unless an exemption has been applied for and granted. By 31 December 2023, it will be against the law to sell, breed from, abandon, or give away an American Bully XL. They must also be on a lead and muzzled when in public. If an American Bully XL is less than a year old by 31 January 2024, it needs to be neutered by the end of 2024. If older, neutering must be done by 30 June.

Does this mean that if I own an American Bully XL it will have to be put to sleep?

No, the new guidance, issued by the UK government , is similar to rules for other breeds banned under the Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 . The UK's chief veterinary officer clarified there wouldn't be a cull of the breed. Instead, owners can register their pets on the Index of Exempted Dogs for a fee. Almost 3500 banned dogs live legally with owners in the UK under this scheme. Before a dog can be exempted, requirements like neutering, micro-chipping, and third-party insurance must be met. The dog must also be on a lead and muzzled in public.

Is it illegal to own an American Bully XL?

From February 1, it will be illegal to own an American Bully XL unless you have an exemption as detailed above. The Dangerous Dogs Act allows the government to ban breeds bred for fighting. Police can seize any banned dog in public.

What is an American Bully XL?

The American Bully XL, also known as an XL Bully, is the largest variant of the American Bully type. It's a crossbreed developed by mixing various types of dogs. They first emerged in the US in the late 1980s, when American Pit Bull Terriers and American Staffordshire Bull Terriers were crossed. While the American Bully got recognition from the US United Kennel Club in 2013, it's not recognised by the UK Kennel Club or the American Kennel Club.

How do I know if my dog is classed as an American Bully XL?

To determine if your dog is an American Bully XL, you should look for specific characteristics as outlined by Defra's guidance . An American Bully XL is described as a large dog with a muscular body and a blocky head. This breed suggests significant strength and power relative to its size and is noted for its powerfully built physique. It's important to note that the American Bully XL is not a breed recognised by the Kennel Club in the UK.

What should I do if I own an XL Bully?

If you own an American Bully XL, continue caring for it as normal. We now know that the licensing process will require dogs to be neutered , microchipped and muzzled in public places. Therefore, you can prepare by ensuring your dog is neutered, microchipped, and trained to wear a muzzle. You can also obtain third-party liability insurance, which is available at a reasonable cost to members of the Dogs Trust.

When the ban comes into force, you'll need to apply for a Certificate of Exemption to keep your dog and comply with rules around banned breed types.

What are the rules for exempt dogs?

Under the current legislation, exempt dogs must be neutered, microchipped, kept on a lead and muzzled at all times when in public, and kept in a secure place so they can't escape. Owners must have third-party liability insurance, be over 16, and show the Certificate of Exemption when asked by a police officer or council dog warden.

What about other banned breeds?

The Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 already bans the Pit Bull Terrier, Japanese Tosa, Dogo Argentino, and Fila Brasileiro. Backing, breeding, selling, giving away, or abandoning these types of dogs is illegal.

Are other large breeds like the Cane Corso and Presa Canaria included in the ban?

The government is aware that banning American Bully XLs may result in other breeds, such as the Cane Corso or Presa Canaria, becoming fashionable, and they are considering what to do in those circumstances. But it’s possible other breeds and crosses between these breeds may be covered in the future.

Additional Resources

MUZZLING

Dogs that need to be muzzled are far better off if they are used to the muzzle being applied at home regularly

MANAGING ANXIETY/BEHAVIOUR

If you are worried about how your dog may behave at the vets for appointments or their neutering appointment, then we can help with this as there are some good "pre-appointment" medication that we can give to help them relax. We use a "chill protocol" and further advice on this can be found on our blog here .

Too Hot to Handle? How to manage heat stroke

Thu, 10 Aug 2023 14:39:47 GMT

What is Heat Stroke?

Heat stroke is an illness that comes about from the body getting excessively hot. Normal core body temperature in dogs should be less than 38 degrees Celsius. Heat Stoke can come about when the core temperature increases above 40 degrees and we can see temperatures in excess of 42-45 degrees.

It is different from a high temperature due to illness and usually occurs when the ability to cool off is exceeded by an increase in heating.

What causes Heat Stroke?

There can be several factors involved in developing heat stroke. These can include:

Increased ambient temperature. Such as hot summer days, being trapped in a hot car, sleeping in conservatory and thick hairy coats.
Increased heat generation from exercise - such as ball chasing, or running.
Reduced cooling ability - eg dehydration, respiratory disease that affects breathing/panting etc.
Anatomy, as many short-nosed breeds (brachycephalics) are much less effective at cooling compared to longer-nosed breed dogs.
Concurrent illnesses. Dogs with cardiac or respiratory disease and laryngeal disease are more likely to struggle to cool.
Body weight - obese animals are far more likely to get heat stroke.

What are the symptoms of Heat Stroke?

In the early stage of heat stroke, you may see the following:

Increased panting - often very strong deep breaths and marked effort.
Drooling
Fear/panic
Lethargy
Vomiting and/or Diarrhoea

As the heat stroke gets worse you may see:

Collapse or unresponsiveness
Seizures
Death

What can you do if you suspect your pet has heat stroke?

Move your pet to a cooler/shaded area as soon as possible.
Soak the animal with COLD water. Wash with water, ensure the coat is saturated and cover all areas - limbs, trunk and back of the head. Try to avoid the water going near their mouth or nose as they could inhale some.
DO NOT COVER WITH WET TOWELS as this traps heat. You can sit/lie the dog on them but you must not cover.
If possible, encourage the dog to drink COLD water. Little and often is better than single massive amounts.
Air movement over the body will help - so you can use electric fans if available.
Continue wetting the animal until they improve. This can be noted as:
Reduced/cessation of panting.
Moving around better and looking brighter.
Looking settled and comfortable.
Dogs that are losing consciousness will stop panting - make sure that these dogs are still aggressively and actively cooled and aren't confused for an improving animal.
Only once your pet has cooled down, contact your nearest emergency vet as soon as possible.

There is a common myth on social media about rapid cooling being dangerous. THIS IS NOT TRUE. You should not delay cooling and you should not use warm/tepid water. RAPID and DRAMATIC COOLING BEFORE YOU TAKE YOUR PET TO THE VET gives your dog the best chance of recovery.

Prevention is better than cure.

The best way to manage heat stroke is to stop it happening in the first place. We suggest the following:

Avoid walking or exercising your dog in hot weather. Even a short walk can catch people out. Remember - dogs don't die of NOT being walked!
Obese dogs and brachycephalic dogs (flat-faced breeds) are MUCH more prone and so extra care should be taken.
Take extra care if you pet has underlying cardiac or respiratory disease. This is particularly applicable to dogs with laryngeal paralysis .
Do not leave dogs in cars for any period of time.
Beware conservatories at home! We have had several animals that have had dogs trapped in these during the day and overheated. Make sure doors cannot blow shut etc.
Avoid excessive exercise if the weather is warmer. Dogs will chase balls or run around and not realise they are overheating until it is too late.
Think about using cool-mats or wet towels for dogs to lie on at home.
Remember that fans won't work unless the pet's coat is wet. Dogs don't sweat like we do and so there is zero cooling effect on dry coats.
Don't cover with towels - this may trap the heat.
If in doubt - WET then VET.

Dangerous Festive Foods

Wed, 21 Dec 2022 13:24:51 GMT

As the festive season approaches, be sure to keep the following foods all to yourself… and well away from your pets!

Chocolate

Chocolate is highly poisonous to dogs and cats, and can even be fatal! Make sure your selection boxes and other goodies stay somewhere they can’t reach at all times. The darker the chocolate, the more risk. If your pet has eaten some chocolate, don't panic - you can use our handy "choc-tox" calculator to see if you need to seek help!

Alcohol

Alcohol can make our pets sick and dizzy, so be sure to keep it to yourself this Christmas. Most problems we see with Alcohol and pets is from eating Liquour chocolates!!

Grapes and raisins

Grapes and raisins, found in sweet mince pies and Christmas pudding, can cause kidney failure in pets. This is a very odd toxic issue as it isn't all dogs that are affected and many dogs who do eat these are fine - however in some animals, they can be affected by an incredibly low-dose. So we tend to err on the side of caution suggest to induce vomiting in any animal that has eaten any amount.

Xylitol

Xylitol is a sweetener, commonly found in sugar-free sweets, chewing gum, toothpaste, mouthwash and certain baked goods. Check labels of such items carefully, or better still, keep them away from your pet altogether. Xylitol can make pets very poorly VERY quickly (in around 15mins) and if you think your pet has eaten it then contact a vet straight away. It can cause low blood sugar and so giving them something sweet such as jam or honey can help whilst you arrange emergency care.

Fatty foods

Fine in small doses, but do be careful. Sausages, bacon and other fatty meats can cause stomach upsets. Pancreatitis can be triggered by a sudden binge of fatty food.

Nuts

Nuts are a choking hazard, and some can make our pets vomit. Avoid feeding these to your pets, and take extra care when carrying a handful from one room to the other.

Onions

Onions, and other cooking essentials such as garlic and chives, can cause stomach damage or blood disorders to our pets. While you’re preparing meals over Christmas, you may want to keep them out of the kitchen… just in case.

Cooked bones

Bones can cause a great deal of damage if they split, crack or get lodged somewhere they shouldn’t. As famous a dog treat as they might be, it’s often safer to choose something else. We do often find that eating bones can trigger colitis or other tummy upsets. So called "Monday-Morning-Syndrome" is something we regularly see after Sunday dinners/barbeques!

Corn on the cob

Corn is difficult to digest, and the cob poses an intestinal blockage hazard. We regularly see these causing dogs to require emergency bowel surgery and is definitely in the Top 10 culprits. Once again, it’s better just to avoid this one altogether.

Pet-friendly treats

The best advice we can give, is to try and stick to feeding your pet what you would NORMALLY feed them! If you stick to vet-approved, pet-friendly treats and their regular sensible diet you can provide your pet with the best Christmas…. And risk-free, too!

If you’re concerned, or have any further questions, don’t hesitate to give us a call!

Diary of a War Dog

Tue, 01 Nov 2022 19:00:00 GMT

In the second of her series looking at the role of animals in war, vet nurse Meg Gardner looks at life in the trenches for the men and dogs of Twenty-two Company King’s Fusiliers.

An uncompromising tale of life on the front line in 1916, as told from the perspective of the dogs who lived and worked alongside the soldiers of the British Forces.

A tale of loyalty and friendship, hardship and loss.

As both men and dogs face the horrors of warfare, an unexpected arrival in the trenches show both dogs and men the value of compassion.

Warning: The following passage contains graphic descriptions of war and death of both animals and people. Reader discretion is advised, and content may not be suitable for children.

THE SOMME, FRANCE 1916.

Two years ago, if someone had told me that life would find me hundreds of miles from home, elbow deep in mud, with nothing to keep master James and I company but savage wind and rain…. why I’d have said they’d had too much scrumpy cider from the apples in our farm orchard. I still dream about the farm…. now and then. It seems my dreams these days are mostly about running to escape the snipers and insurgents. Sometimes I dream that I jump the parapets of the frontline trench and I’m heading at top speed for the reserve trench. I’m almost there, I look behind me as I run, but I can’t see my master, where is master? I can hear him shouting, but all I see is smoke and fire.

“Master James,” I bark. “Hurry, you must hurry. The gas is coming, the gas is coming!!!”

Then I wake up.

Master James strokes my head. His words comfort me. For a moment I don’t know where I am… I’m still in my dream.

“There now, silly old thing,” he says.

Master dreams too, I don’t know what he dreams about but sometimes he shouts…. it scares me. Then he sobs… sometimes I hear him call for someone. I lay a paw on his face and lay myself down upon his chest, and I stay with him until he is calm.

“There now, silly old thing,” I mumble.

It can be lonely some nights when master and I are on trench patrol. It depends on which part of the line you get sent to, but if you are lucky and get to guard the work parties, you can often get scraps of bread and jam from the infantrymen. They sneak some of their rations up to the line and pass a bit to us as a thank you…. you know, for keeping them safe. Most nights master James and I guard the communications trench. It’s not a bad job, but you need to have your wits about you mind. Jerry likes to creep over no-man’s-land when he thinks you are not paying attention and throw a grenade or two into the trench. Some nights, they set us mines and tripwires, but that means approaching the dog patrols. I caught one of them three nights ago. I’d have brought him down too had it not been for losing my footing in the mud. Oh, I sent him scurrying back to their trenches alright, with a nice imprint of my teeth in his backside as a souvenir.

My name is Reuben by the way. I am a German Short Haired Pointer, but we’ll keep that to ourselves. There are some around here who would take a stick to me for that, mad I know…. a dog can’t help his heritage. Most of the soldiers here wouldn’t know one breed of dog from another, so I’m just a Pointer, for all those who have got an interest to ask.

There are six dogs in Twenty-Two Company. There is Jess, she’s a black Labrador. Intelligent, willing; she knows every inch of this trench line. Then there’s Curly the wire-haired Jack Russell; a bloody nuisance, always in trouble. The only thing he’s good for is ratting. Still, comes in handy when food is rationed. Then there are Noah and Moses, the two red and white Border Collies. They belong to the captain. Oh, they look innocent enough, but they’ll bite you soon as look at you. The smiling assassins master James calls them. Lastly, there is London Charlie, he’s a mixed breed. Mother was an English Bull Terrier, and father was, well…. no better than he ought to be, a fly by night. London Charlie inherited his mother’s domed white nose and a black patch over one eye, and as for the rest of him… well, one can only guess. His name came about because there used to be two Charlies in the trenches. You can’t have two dogs in the trenches with the same name, so because he and his master came from London, he became known as London Charlie. The other Charlie was a fantastic dog, sharp as a trench knife and as fast as a bullet. He could sniff out anything, and he could run all day long and still have enough energy for patrol. That’s the thing with Springer Spaniels, they can just run forever, they never tire, and he was always willing to work, even in the rain. His willingness was to be his undoing…. in the end. Charlie met his maker one day last autumn whilst searching for mines in no-man’s-land. He caught a scent from over the parapet of the trench and shot off like lightning, keen to get after Jerry. Master John shouted at him to wait, but Charlie was on the scent. He ran light, over the divots of the shell holes, darting left by the burnt oak. Master John shouted and shouted; his hollering caught the attention of the rest of us back in the trenches. Charlie jumped the barricade, he had Jerry in his sights, and he kept running. He knew where to run to the right to avoid the snipers, but he hadn’t banked on them laying new mines just to the left of the communication’s post. I don’t think he knew what hit him. I swear my heart froze as I saw that mine go up. Poor master John, he cried for days. I don’t think I ever saw him so sad.

Even though we only had one Charlie left in the trench after the accident with the mine, they all still called him London Charlie… it kind of suits him.

The days are all the wrong way round here in the trenches. In the daytime, we rest, save the ‘stand to’ at the first hour of dawn and the last hour of dusk. This is when we take it in turns, to be posted as the lookout. It’s lonely and dangerous up on the fire step which is a raised platform of wood and sandbags or a shelf of compacted mud. Here we have a look-out post which looks out over no-man’s-land. The viewing port is just about big enough to put a rifle through. At every fifth post in our sector, there is a machine gun. It’s always better to be assigned to the machine gun look-out, much better chance of survival. Few Jerrys are prepared to take their chances against machine guns. A Lee Enfield rifle relies much more on the accurate shooting of the infantryman at the end of it. Snipers always seem to have better luck picking off the riflemen.

Night-time is when we do most of the work. After dark is a good time to move men and equipment…. less visible, see. Trenches and latrines get dug by lamp light, and our boys need watching and guarding as they go about their duties. Some duties get done in the day, but for the most part, we rest. When battles happen between opposing enemy trenches, they are fierce and terrifying. Daytime is a good time for launching mortar attacks. The good light assures accurate targeting. For all that the fortresses of wood and barbed wire can protect us from frontal assault, nothing can protect us from the carnage raining down from the skies. That low whistle that precedes a mortar attack is a truly terrifying sound when you are sat in the trenches.

Trench life is all about routine. Duty consists of twelve days on, four days off. Eight days you spend in the frontline…. you don’t sleep much. It’s not full-on fighting all the time, but when the attacks happen, it’s the frontline that gets the worst of it. Then you work four days in the reserve and back trenches. We rest as much as possible, but there are always things to do, and of course, we are always on standby to fill in on the frontline. We then have four days leave from the trenches which are either spent at base camp or some choose to take accommodation in the local towns and villages. A lot of the taverns and boarding houses don’t allow dogs, so master and I stay at base camp when we are on leave.

April 1916.

Sunday night had been quiet, and master James and I had managed to knock off early with the hope of getting a couple of hours extra sleep.

London Charlie decided to wake me up at some ungodly hour whilst on his way to the fire step for morning stand to. I’d just got myself comfortable in between two kit bags when the blundering oaf came along sniffing and rooting around for some scraps of bully beef.

“There ain't none, and I’d be grateful if you’d clear off and let me sleep,” I growled at him.

He licked my master’s face. Master James didn’t seem to mind being woken up. He opened one eye, then shut it again, and reached out a hand to stroke London Charlie on the head. That’s it, the damn impertinence of it! Who did he think he was? He was supposed to be on duty with his master.

“Clear off!” I snapped at him. “Go and do your duty soldier, this is our rest time, we’ve been up all night on patrol.”

London Charlie turned and left. I pushed my head up under my master’s hand and nestled myself down by his side.

“You silly old thing,” he uttered, patting my head before falling asleep again.

Two more days and we’d be on leave. I sighed as I settled down to sleep. Soon I found myself back on the farm running the cattle up from the bottom meadow for evening milking. Master James patting the bony old rump of Duchess, the matriarch of the herd. She’s always last through the gate, but she’s earned her right to be slow after all these years. The sun hangs low over the apple orchard as milking is finished, and master James tells me to run the herd back to the bottom meadow. Dusk settles and before long dark sets in, but I can hear shouting, it’s master… so loud, he’s shouting…. I wake up. It’s master, he’s shouting in his dreams again. I lay across his chest until he calms. I lick his face and his hand raises to stroke my head.

“Good boy,” he said. He won’t remember that in the morning.

“Come with me,” I mumbled through my jowls. “I’m just running the cows back down to the bottom meadow.”

“Fetch Duchess, Reuben,” he said suddenly from nowhere in his sleep. At least he’d stopped dreaming about the war.

May 1916.

Jess and I were excited. We were off to base camp on leave for four days’ rest. We had to walk to base camp as the transport truck had broken down again, the second time this week; still, the weather was good, so a good walk would be welcome, even our masters didn’t seem to mind, anything to be out of the trenches. Nothing could spoil the mood today, there’s nothing quite like shaking off the shackles of duty.

Jess and I took it in turns to run ahead. Master James and master Alfred walked at leisure. With no march beating out a rhythm to walk to, they smoked cigarettes and laughed as they walked. There were lots of things to sniff and smell along the way, and Jess and I enjoyed each other’s company, playing tag and rolling around in play. We headed up the hill from the woods, the road winds around and curves into a blind bend at the brow of the hill. We trotted side by side. It was a competition now to see who could trot the fastest. I looked at her, she looked at me. I’ve got longer legs, but she moves quicker. She upped the pace to compensate for my lengthy stride. I pushed through from my back legs, extending my shoulders, my stride increasing. Suddenly Jess stopped dead. I turned around to see where she was; she was rooted to the spot, sniffing the air…. something was wrong. Our masters were still some distance behind. They’d stopped to talk to a cavalryman. He was riding a big black horse. I looked up ahead, but I couldn’t see any danger. There was something on the air. Jess was never wrong when it came to danger. Her nose was high in the air like there was something she was catching, but she couldn’t quite figure out what it was. I took a step forward; Jess gave a sharp bark. I stopped again. I guess two noses are better than one, so I began sniffing to see what I could smell. Something was catching at the back of my nose, but what? I moved forward; Jess looked at me anxiously. I slowed my gait and lowered my head to see if I could catch a scent from the ground. I stopped, lifting my head again I could hear something in the distance from around the bend, it was a marching company of men, they were some distance off, but they were advancing. I didn’t know what was wrong, but something was…. and they were heading straight towards it. Jess joined me at the brow of the hill, we looked at each other and then down the hill towards our masters, we must warn them. Jess began to bark. The cavalryman had moved off and was now trotting up the hill towards us. I started to bark as well, hoping to frighten the horse into staying away, but it just kept coming. A breeze rushed past me, and the scent was unmistakable; that metallic tang, the smell of explosive…. it was a mine. Our masters were paying no attention, smoking cigarettes and laughing. I can only do what I’m trained to do, I’m bred and trained to point, pointing means danger. Jess was franticly barking. Surely, they must look up the hill shortly. I stood tall, head erect, back long and low, with my back legs broad and tail held rigid behind me, a front leg lifted into the air, my whole body poised in the direction of the danger. It wasn’t working, master James wasn’t looking, and the horse was getting closer and closer. Jess was beside herself; they were taking no notice of us at all. The horse trotted past us, neither rider nor horse paying us any mind. We watched as the horse approached the bend. Back down the hill master James looked up to where Jess and I were standing, Jess frantically barking, me on point. He looked at the horse and rider as they started to disappear around the bend. He dropped his cigarette and started to run up the hill, yelling at the top of his voice, but it was too late. Everything at that moment stopped. I could hear master’s calls, but they were just echoes in the dust. Footsteps, running, screaming, the cries of both the cavalryman and the horse. Confusion took over. The advancing party of infantrymen reached the scene. Soldiers stood in disbelief, knowing that moments later it would have been them. Master ran by me, out of breath from running up the hill, but the adrenalin of his fear still powered him on. The horse lay in the road, its front legs blown away by the landmine, but it was still alive. The rider was trapped beneath it. It took three men to drag the lad out, he was screaming. The horse thrashed and thrashed, the white of the bone of its shoulder blade was sticking out of its flesh, its back leg was shattered, and was flailing as it tried desperately to get to its feet. I’d never heard a horse scream like that before. No one could get a clean shot off to put it out of its misery, they tried, over and over. Bullets went into its neck, and it's back…. some missed altogether. In the end, an infantryman shot it through the heart. That wasn’t a clean shot either, but it was sufficient to make it still enough that they could shoot it in the head. Jess and I could only stand back from the crowd and watch.

The cavalryman was badly injured. Some of the soldiers removed their jackets to try to make a stretcher to put him on; his cries will haunt me for the rest of my days. The soldiers were trying to comfort him, telling him over and over he’d be ok. He kept crying out the name Oliver, I think that must have been the name of his horse. They tried to shield him from the sight of the animal’s broken dead body.

Eventually, the cavalryman was taken away and the remaining men of the trench relief continued their march to the trenches, the mood of their march now sullen and silent. The road was empty once more except for the four of us. We all sat on the grass just staring at the horse laying in the road, its destroyed and bleeding body now lifeless and still. Master sat smoking a cigarette, his hand shook. I sat beside him and pushed myself into his side. I licked away a tear from his face. He took my head in both hands and looked into my eyes.

“You tried to tell me didn’t you fella,” he said. I licked his nose; he smiled but more tears came.

July 1916

Our sector had seen fighting fiercer than ever before. The horror had started one Saturday morning, two weeks ago since. Men, so many men had climbed the parapets of the trenches never to return, with carnage and brutality on a scale that I had never thought possible.

Master and I had been assigned to medical duties to assist the mercy dogs of the red cross who went out into no-man’s-land in search of the wounded. Whilst master attended to one man, I would search for the next. If I found a soldier alive, I would return to master so I could lead him to where he had fallen. I soon learnt to tell the difference between the silent injured, and those who were dead. I carried first aid supplies in a pack on my harness. If a soldier were able to, he could use the field dressings and bandages to dress his wounds. Often, soldiers were unable to help themselves, so I would lay across them to keep them warm until help arrived. Sometimes, the men would be in too much pain and couldn’t bear to be touched, so I would just sit beside them as company until master came. I could never understand what they were saying to me, but they were always grateful I was there. Sometimes, I was the last thing they saw.

Popular fiction would have you believe that death on a battlefield is noble. Nothing could be further from the truth. Men scream and cry as they die. They wet themselves and cry out for their mothers, terror and fear consume them as they bleed out. Often, wounded men sit paralysed, rigid with fear, or they mutter incomprehensively…. shell shock they call that.

The men of Twenty-Two Company carefully lowered the wrapped bodies into the holes that had been dug in the fields preceding the trench lines. With so many casualties, orders were to dig holes deep and fit as many in as possible. The last body placed into the hole was that of Private Peter Thompson. Peter Thompson was London Charlie’s master.

“Earth to earth, ashes to ashes, dust to dust. Eternal rest grant unto them O Lord, and may perpetual light shine upon them,” said the company chaplain as he made the sign of the cross.

I sat at my master’s side as he paid his respects at the roadside. He picked some wildflowers that grew alongside the hedgerow and laid them on the mound of earth. Soon, the captain came, barking orders at the remaining men to get back to their duties. I don’t think he means to be unkind; I think it’s just his way of dealing with it. Master James was angry, how could God let this happen? The chaplain tried to comfort the men, but there was no comfort to be found. Master and I got up and began our way back to the trenches. I stopped and looked behind me. There, sat on his master’s grave was London Charlie. He laid down, whimpering softly. He had no one to be angry with. What would become of him now? I wondered. Master James called me, and I turned and left… it had begun to rain.

For three days, London Charlie didn’t move from his master’s grave, even the rain did not deter him from his vigil. We had just returned from the medical post when I caught sight of him. He was laid on the mound of earth, shivering. Master was about to head down the lane toward base camp when he stopped to light a cigarette. He glanced down the lane to the rows of wooden crosses that had been dug into the earth to mark the places where fallen comrades lay. He saw London Charlie sat upon the grave. He took a draw on his cigarette and looked at me. I barked and looked down the road toward London Charlie.

“Looks like we aren’t the only ones missing our friends eh Reuben,” he said. He took another draw on his cigarette and then dropped the half-smoked remnant on the floor, flattening it with his foot. I fidgeted. I looked at London Charlie, then looked at master James.

“Come on boy,” he said.

We made our way down toward the grave site. London Charlie sat up as he saw us approach.

“There now London Charlie,” said master. “You can’t stay here old fella. Look at you.”

London Charlie shivered, he was wet and cold and hadn’t eaten or drunk for days. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a dog look so sorrowful. Master took off his trench coat and wrapped it around him. He took a piece of dried biscuit from his tunic pocket and offered it to London Charlie. He took it with gratitude.

“No one thought about you did they eh, all too busy fighting this damn war. Come on boy, you come with us.”

Master James stood up and gently took London Charlie by his collar. London Charlie took a few steps, then looked back at his master’s grave.

“It’s ok boy. He’ll still be here… we’ll come and visit…. promise.”

London Charlie turned and walked slowly beside master and me. Seemed master James had two dogs now.

September 1916.

The fighting continued into the autumn, and our company was sent further up the line to relieve the infantry units near Theipval. A village not far from the town had been a German stronghold. Fighting to liberate the village had been long and drawn out; casualties had been high, and now command wanted to send in the dog patrols to search for any hidden mines and explosives before handing back the village to the French.

The truck pulled up outside a tavern and we jumped out. We all wore collars and leads for this mission until being given orders otherwise. There wasn’t the usual banter being exchanged amongst the soldiers, a feeling of apprehension hung in the air as the men unloaded kit bags and equipment from the truck.

We were the first to enter the village since the infantry units had left and it was our job to sweep the village, root out any threat, and annihilate any remaining enemy resistance. The village told its own story as we walked the empty and now silent streets. Craters and shell holes lined the road. The bodies of German soldiers lay scattered about the village, and as we turned down a narrow lane, we saw the bloated body of a cavalry horse laying in a ditch by a well. Birds pecked at the eyes of both the soldiers and the horse. The buildings were derelict and had been ransacked, bullet holes lined the walls, rooftops were caved in, and broken timbers hung from the gables. Fires burnt here and there, and everywhere the stench of death carried on the wind.

I walked close to master James, and in turn, London Charlie walked close to me. I looked behind me. Jess looked nervous, she sniffed the air as she walked, dropping on her haunches every time she heard a noise. Even Curly the Jack Russell stayed close by master Jack. The captain walked ahead of me and London Charlie. Noah and Moses, walked at arm’s length ahead of him, sniffing the ground as they went.

We reached an old farmhouse. The house was little more than a ruin, but the stable block that lay on the other side of the courtyard had remained intact. The captain decided that we would make the stables our command post from which to coordinate operations.

Master James took wire cutters from his kit bag and put them in his pocket. One common Jerry trick was to leave trip wires attached to grenades before retreating. The tripwires were deadly, and it was so easy to run into them unknowingly. Almost impossible to see, and with virtually no scent to speak of, they were not for the inexperienced. London Charlie had never been on an explosives mission before, and I would be lying if I said that I wasn’t more than a little nervous at having a raw recruit with us. London Charlie was always keen to please, but he lacked the delicacy required for this job; you can’t just go blundering in, bounding around like a big oaf. I looked at master, oh how I wished Jess had been my partner for this operation.

“Now then Reuben, we have a rookie on the mission this morning, so it’s up to you to teach him,” said master.

As if reading my thoughts, master James checked that the clasp to London Charlie’s lead was secure and that his collar was no more than two fingers tight. He unclipped my lead to free me. I waited and sat patiently by master James’ feet. London Charlie looked confused, he couldn’t understand why I was free, but that he was still secured to a lead; he looked up at Master James.

“Not just now old fella, you’ve some learning to do. Don’t want you rushing off and blowing us all to kingdom come now, do we,” he said.

Master James stroked his face. London Charlie didn’t understand, but he trusted master and was obedient to the lead.

We moved out toward the village, Jess, Curly and the two collies now free to work up the scent. The two collies ran ahead. I took the left flank; Jess took the right as we came out of the farmyard and headed for the village square. Curly was an old hand at explosives, he could sniff out grenades better than any of us. He skirted around the men, nose to the ground. London Charlie began to get agitated and pulled against the restraint of the lead, but master held him tight, checking him back in when he tried to get too far ahead. He panted with excitement.

It wasn’t long before we came across our first find. Captain shouted at the men to stay back. I turned and looked. Up ahead Moses was laid flat on the ground, his nose outstretched, his signal for danger. The captain called Noah back to his side. Noah sat watching anxiously as his brother held his position. The remaining handlers raised their hands and Jess, Curly and I all sat where we were. London Charlie strained on the lead to see what was going on, but Master James checked him back and put him in a sit position, telling him firmly to stay and be quiet. He pricked his ears and waited. Two soldiers quickly moved forward and cautiously approached the area where Moses had stopped. The other infantrymen of the unit slowly moved out in a fan shape, looking down the sights of their rifles as they went. It could all just be a game. Sometimes the enemy would set trip wires or mines, wait until the unit moved in to defuse them and then ambush them, or detonate another device nearby. Tension filled the air. London Charlie began to paddle with his front paws, seems he didn’t quite understand the gravity of the situation. He made grumbling noises. Master James took his muzzle and held it firmly, telling him no. Should he start to bark, he would give away our position, and that could mean death for us all. I glared at him from where I was. A signal went up, the men had found a mine. We held our positions until we were sure no enemy was close by, and then the area was cleared until the mine was made safe.

We found a total of six mines and one unexploded shell that morning, and although one could never say for sure that no more mines remained, the village was declared safe for civilians to return. People were warned to keep away from the outlying areas and drainage ditches in case of further hidden devices.

With work over, we dogs took some recreational time out to play. London Charlie was grateful to be off the lead at last and sniffed the stash of deactivated weapons we had found. It was going to take some training for him to work as an explosives dog, and I had a feeling it would be many months before he could work off lead. Personally, I think one should always work to one’s own strengths, and I believed that for London Charlie, that strength was guarding.

November 1916.

Winter came early, with bitter winds and deep snow drifts making fighting impossible. Blizzards blew across the region, leaving visibility in no man’s- land down to no more than a few yards. The landscape was barren and frozen. Water supplies froze and with the ground as hard as iron, no digging or trench repairs were possible. At times, temperatures were unbearably cold and for dogs and soldiers alike, it was a constant battle for food and warmth. Our masters did all they could to keep us sheltered. Some of the men gave us jumpers or wrapped their scarves around us for warmth. Master James, London Charlie and I all shivered. We would sit, wrapped in a blanket, huddled together to share warmth while we rested. Sickness was rife amongst the soldiers, and I was worried. Master had begun to cough two days ago and last night he had no mind to eat his supper. The ground in no-man’s-land was solid and rutted, but in the trench line, the mud remained stinking in places with the cess from overflowing latrines as the ground was too frozen to dig further pits.

One morning, a young soldier hadn’t returned to the dugout following his duty at the stand to. Master James and I went out to look for him. Master wrapped his trench coat tightly around himself; he was coughing again. The snow began to fall as we walked. We reached the fire step to see the young boy still at his post, looking out through the gun port.

“Hey… mate,” said master James. “You can stand down.” The soldier didn’t reply. Master stamped his feet impatiently, blowing into his hands and rubbing them together. I sat beside him, shivering. “Mate…. Corporal Mason,” he said, shaking the young lad by the shoulder. He dropped his hand abruptly and took a step back, rubbing his face. “Jesus Christ,” he uttered.

I didn’t understand. I gave a small whine. Why wasn’t he moving? I pawed at the corporal’s trench coat, then I sniffed him…. I knew that smell.

Gently, master leaned the young boy backwards. The boy stared straight ahead, the blue of his eyes opaque, the whites of his eyes frozen. Master bowed his head and said a prayer. Suddenly, something moved from inside the corporal’s trench coat. I looked at master James, but he was still praying. I barked and then pawed at the soldier’s coat.

“He’s gone, fella. Nothing we can do I’m afraid.”

No…. no, look I beseeched him with a whine and continued to paw at the dead boy’s coat. Master stroked me but didn’t understand what I was trying to tell him. I barked loudly. The coat moved again, this time I barked forcefully, not prepared to stop until he looked.

“What on earth is the matter with you Reuben? He’s dead.”

No, no I insisted. Then he looked and saw the lapel of the soldier’s trench coat move. I stopped and cocked an ear; I could hear a noise coming from inside the soldier’s coat. I knew that sound, although I would never have believed it had I not heard it for myself. Master James heard it too and started frantically searching inside the dead soldier’s uniform. He carefully pulled out something small. He held it gently, and cupped it in both hands; he blew warm breath on it and rubbed it gently, a soft crying noise coming from between his fingers…. it was a kitten. I jumped up and down, trying desperately to get a better look, sniffing enthusiastically at his hands. He held the bundle of fur away from me and told me to get down. He placed the tiny creature inside his trench coat, and we quickly made our way back to the dugout.

Inside the dugout, London Charlie emerged from under the blanket where he shivered, pleased to see us return. He wagged his tail as we entered, and then he saw that master held something in his hands. He cocked his head and came to sniff whatever it was master held, hoping that it was food. Master James let us both sniff his hands but kept the little creature enclosed until he felt sure we wouldn’t attack it. Sounds of mewing came from behind his fingers.

“Gently now you two, do you hear?” he said firmly.

Slowly he opened his hands. The biggest pair of blue eyes looked out from behind his fingers. The little thing cried and shivered, her tabby-coloured fur was dirty and damp. The kitten was thin, she looked too young to be away from her mother. I had seen kittens many a time on the farm. They lived in our hay barn and earned their keep by hunting rats and pigeons who would get into the silos and contaminate the corn. London Charlie stood mesmerised by the little animal. He took a step back and looked at master James.

“It’s ok boy,” said master James.

London Charlie pricked up his ears, totally taken with her. Ever so gently he began to lick the little creature. I had never seen him take such care. The most boisterous and oafish of dogs was now the gentlest and kindest of souls. His strength was infinitely greater than hers, he could kill her with one bite should he choose, but I knew there and then that he would never hurt her, and he would always stand as protector and guardian.

Master had found an old ammunition crate to keep the kitten in whilst we were on patrol of an evening. London Charlie would always be first into the dugout on our return, rushing straight to the crate to check on his new charge and to wash her. He’d done a good job of cleaning her up, and we discovered that she had a white bib and chest, and two white front paws once the dirt had all been groomed away. Master James fed her beef tea from a teaspoon, and soon she was taking small chunks of bully beef from his hand. The meat was tough and took some chewing, but she managed it in the end. It seemed her appetite was growing as quickly as she was. The same could not be said for master James, as his coughing was getting worse, and most days he could barely face eating at all. I was worried for him. He began to grow thin and some days he didn’t leave his bed at all, save to feed us and the kitten and then to go out for duty. I kept vigil by his side, laying across him as he slept to see he stayed warm.

As the days passed, London Charlie and the kitten became inseparable. His whole world became about taking care of her. I on the other hand grew more and more concerned about master James. Master and I had returned from duty one night, sent back to the dugout early by the company sergeant when master James became too sick to stand up. The next morning, he lay in his bed shivering and sweating, and I was unable to stir him from his sleep. I pawed at the blanket, barking at him to get up, but it was all no use. London Charlie came over and sniffed master’s face, we both knew something was terribly wrong. London Charlie lay across him to keep him warm while I went for help. I couldn’t find master Alfred or Jess. I ran up to the communications trench, with no time to stop for my usual pats and scraps of bread and jam. I jumped over the men sat in the gangway, frantically searching in and out of the dugouts for Master Alfred. I stood barking at the top of my voice, but the men just laughed at me and tried to tussle me, thinking it was all just a game. Stupid, stupid men, no…. why didn’t they understand? Suddenly, Master Alfred appeared. He too thought it was a game at first, stroking my head as I barked. Jess sensed all was not well, and she too began to bark. Alfred dropped his hand, looking at Jess. I stood on point, looking down the gangway from where I’d just come. He realised something was wrong and picked up his rifle.

“What is it Reuben, what’s wrong fella?”

Jess and I took off in the direction of the reserve trench, master Alfred running behind.

In the dugout, London Charlie guarded our master. Master Alfred rushed to his bedside and tried to wake him, but he couldn’t. He told us to stay, and then he disappeared. We waited. Where was he, where had he gone… why wasn’t anyone coming? Master’s breaths were shallow and irregular, I pawed at the blanket.

“Wake up, please wake up,” I barked.

Master Alfred suddenly appeared again in the doorway, and this time other men came too. They were all talking but I didn’t understand what they were saying. They put my master on a stretcher and took him away. I sat in the gangway of the trench line and watched as they disappeared with him through the falling snow. Where were they taking him? I looked up at Master Alfred. He stroked my head.

“Now then Reuben, you and London Charlie will have to come and stay with Jess and me for a while. Don’t know how long it will be mind, and there isn’t much room, but I guess we’ll all just have to rub along together.”

He put a lead on me and picked up the old blanket that we used as a bed. He clipped a lead to London Charlie but as he went to leave, London Charlie refused to move. I barked at him to obey, but he pulled free of master Alfred’s grip and went and sat by the old ammunition crate in the corner. Alfred went over to the crate. London Charlie whined and scratched at the wooden box. He peered inside to see the tabby kitten sat amongst a bundle of rags. She stared up at the new visitor, not in the least bit perturbed by his presence. She blinked her big blue eyes and meowed.

“Well I never,” exclaimed master Alfred. “Where have you come from?” he said, lifting her up into the air.

The kitten looked around her, repeating her meows for food.

“It’s a wonder you haven’t frozen to death,” he said.

London Charlie licked her face; she batted his nose with her tiny paws.

“By rights, I should be getting rid of you… another mouth to feed,” he said to the kitten.

Master Alfred looked at the three of us and then he looked back at the kitten sat in his hand. She meowed.

“Guess you’ve no more wish to be here than the rest of us, eh? Well, I reckon we just have to look after each other.”

Just then a figure appeared in the doorway. I couldn’t see clearly because of the reflection of the light upon the falling snow, but I could see it was an outline of a dog. The figure lowered its head, creeping forward, a deep and sinister growl coming from its open mouth, it was Noah… he would kill the kitten for sure, he never did have any mercy. He launched at the tiny animal, knocking master Alfred off his feet. The kitten fell to the ground, dazed by the impact. Noah was upon her, but just as quickly and with equal ferocity, London Charlie was upon Noah. Jess rushed forward picking up the small kitten in her mouth, not to harm her, but to save her. She ran behind the crate with the kitten to shelter her from the two fighting dogs. They fought as fiercely as I had ever seen, blood coming from both their mouths, screeching and snarling ensued; teeth, fur, flesh, I could no longer tell who’s. I feared that there was only one way this would end, but then suddenly Noah submitted, whining on the floor, blood stained the white fur of the ruff of his neck. London Charlie backed away and stood looking at him, panting as he did so, blood dripping from his mouth, his face lacerated, his ear torn; Noah remained submissive on the floor. London Charlie turned to walk away, his neck exposed, I saw it in a flash, it was a trap. Noah launched to his feet, his mouth as wide as he could get it, aiming to lock onto London Charlie’s neck…. he was going to kill him. I leapt into the air, bringing my whole weight down upon his back, I knew I had just one chance, if I got this wrong, he would kill me for sure. His body buckled below my weight, taking him sideways off his feet. He swung his head around, a murderous look in his eyes, but my reactions were sharper, I had him pinned by his neck, my whole body holding him flat to the floor, winding him. I snarled and salivated, not letting my grip weaken.

“Leave here; leave here now, or I will tear you limb from limb.” I snarled.

I released my grip. Noah beat a hasty retreat from the dugout, blood dripping into the snow as he ran.

Two days later a battle-scarred London Charlie lay on the floor of the dugout with one small kitten swinging from his ear. She scrambled over his back, just to slide off and then pounce on his front paws, biting at his jowls in play. He licked her face, sending her bowling backwards as he did so. Today we were packing up and leaving. The campaign to secure the Somme region was to be disbanded. The weather had made fighting impossible, and with so many losses on both sides of the trench lines, it seemed that at last it had been decided that the battle had been too costly to continue. Men argued about whose victory it was. For all of us here in the trenches, it felt like there had been no victory for anyone.

Master Alfred packed his kit bag. He sat down and lit a cigarette, blowing smoke into the air as he stared at London Charlie and the kitten.

“What am I going to do with you lot….? Three dogs and a kitten... it’s a bloomin' menagerie.”

London Charlie wagged his tail. Master smiled and gave him a pat.

“She needs to have a name though boy, she’s got to have a name… it’s only proper. Never thought I’d see two dogs fight another to save a cat. You should have killed her by rights, after all, dogs and cats are supposed to be enemies…. but look at you, thick as thieves. You could teach us, humans, a thing or two. Hey, maybe there’s hope for us yet eh... That’s it. Hope…. we shall call her Hope.”

And with that we all got up and made our way out of the dugout and began the long walk up the trench line to the transport lorries, Hope wrapped up snug inside the lapels of master Alfred’s trench coat. Jess, London Charlie and I walked behind. Here we were, moving on; another day, another trench line, another battle…. in this never-ending war.

THE END.

Take a "Chill Pill"

biltonvets@gmail.com (Tom Waterworth) — Wed, 13 Jul 2022 17:24:16 GMT

How we try to manage stress, fear and anxiety in animals coming to the vets.

The wellbeing of patients under our care is paramount to our practice ethos - it is what we do! Look after animals, and make them better or improve their lives.

Bringing a stressed, anxious or feaful animal to the vets can be a distressing time for both the animal and their owners! It is also important to realise that these animals can also provide a significant challenge to the members of our veterinary team who are tasked with providing their care.

Often the behaviour of these animals can affect our examination which can then ultimately affect diagnosis, treatment and prognosis. Indeed in some extreme circumstance it can prevent some tests, treatments or procedures from even being offered. Not only this, but some animals can be dangerous to our staff, owners and other patients if their fear/stress isn't management appropriately.

In fact, recent studies have shown that owners of an animal who has shown extreme reactions to going to a veterinary practice, are more likely to avoid vet visits which can delay vital medical or surgical care for their pet.

What happens with a fearful/stressed/anxious animal at the vets?

On a very basic level, we may find that these animals can show typical behaviour such as:

Not wanting to come into the building
Pulling away from being examined
Struggling when being examined.
Expressing their emotions with fear based behaviour such as biting, scratching etc

On a more detailed level these animals often have increasing amounts of stress hormones such as adrenaline and cortisol due to the "fright/flight" response and this can alter appearances of things during examination (heart rate, respiration rate, blood pressure, and reflexes for example) as well as make responses to some drugs very different.

It is well known that anaesthesia can be much harder to manage in animals that are stressed or anxious and often higher doses of drugs are required to achievethe desired effect. This in turn can increase risk of the procedure as well as how smooth the induction and recovery can be.

It has also been shown that stressed animals can have poorer responses to treatment as the stress hormones can delay wound healing or make them more likely to get infection

How can we make a nervous pet's visit to the vet less stressful?

Unfortunately - just avoiding visiting the vet isn't an option and so we have to try and make the visits that they do have a better experience.

Minimise waiting room stress. With dogs, this can involve waiting the car/car park rather than the waiting room. For cats, make use of the cat waiting room and utilise the blankets, risers that are present in the room. Consider asking reception if you can come in when we may anticipate the practice to be a bit quieter and avoid peek times.
Vet/Nurse response to the animal. Where possible, we will try and take time with your pet, building their confidence and using treats etc to try and make their experience positive.
Consider "happy visits" where the pet may come to the surgery when they are well and perhaps just come into the practice, have some fuss and treats with the staff and then go out again without having anything really done to them.
Dogs that need to be muzzled are far better off if they are used to the muzzle being applied at home regularly and if they have the muzzle applied BEFORE they come into the practice. There are lots of good online resources about muzzle training anxious pets at home.
https://woodgreen.org.uk/advice/muzzle-training-your-step-by-step-guide/
https://www.pdsa.org.uk/pet-help-and-advice/looking-after-your-pet/puppies-dogs/muzzle-training
https://www.bluecross.org.uk/advice/dog/dogs-and-muzzle-training
Consider use of medication to calm your pet down PRIOR to the visit. These medications can be super helpful and are discussed below.

What is the "Chill Protocol" and what do the medications do?

Over the past few years, vets and behaviourists have developed a protocol using a combination of safe medications, that are intended to be given at home and prior to a vet visit. The aim of these medication is to reduce/manage your pet's fear/anxiety about coming to the vet.

This is really important as the hope is that if their visit (with medication) is then a much less stressful, then we turn the whole experience into a positive one that is likely to improve with further visitation, rather than a negative one which is likely to get worse with further vet visits.

There are some dose ranges and varying combinations that can be used for these drugs - and so sometimes a little "trial-and-error" may need to take place to allow us to establish the suitable regime that suits your pet.

GABAPENTIN

This is a commonly used medication with a very wide and safe dose range. It is typically used as either an anti-convulsant medication or a pain-killer. It has a mild sedatory effect and is very safe to be administer with other agents. On its own, this drug is extremely effective in cats, but in dogs usually needs to be combined with other medications. It is generally given:

A dose the night before a visit
A second dose about 2hrs prior to the actual visit.

CONTRAINDICATIONS: paediatric patients, liver failure, critically ill animals

TRAZADONE

This is traditionally used as an anti-anxiety drug or sleep aid in humans. It is widely used as an anxiolytic drug in veterinary patients and is often used to help restrict exercise in post-surgical patients. Trazadone is safe to be administered with other agents. It is generally given:

A dose the night before a visit
A second dose about 2hrs prior to the actual visit .

CONTRAINDICATIONS: care using in animals with arrhythmias or cardiovascular disease. Trazadone should NOT be used if your pet is taking CBD Oil or any other SSRI type drugs.

MELATONIN

Melatonin is a natual hormone produced by the brain and regulates sleep patterns. More is produced at night and less during the day normally. It can be safely used in veterinary patients with no contra-indications at all and is very safe. The dose does depend on the weight of the dog and care should be taken if human tablets are taken to avoid any that may contain Xylitol, as this is toxic to animals.

CONTRAINDICATIONS: none

ACEPROMEZINE (ACP)

ACP is routinely used in General Practice as a tranquiliser and higher doses often form part of the "pre-medication" protocols for many anaesthetics. Whilst tablet dosing can cause very varied sedation and time-frames, the use of the liquid form given trans-mucosally or "into-the-mouth" has shown to give a much more reliable level of sedation and time window.

This drug is not always required as part of the "chill-protocol" but if deemed necessary by the vet then it is a provided as a single dose in a syringe that you squirt into the mouth and should be given

Approximately 30mins to 1hr prior to the actual visit .

CONTRAINDICATIONS: geriatric patients, and pediatric patients . C are using in patients with cardiovascular disease, liver failure, renal disease,

What is the goal of using the Chill Protocol?

Using the Chill Protocol Drug Regime is a safe and often very effective way of reducing the stress and anxiety that your pet may experience coming to eh the vets. This then allows:

Your pet to have a less traumatic visit to the veterinary practice.
The veterinary team to be able to provide a more thorough, detailed and meaningful examation and/or treatment regime.
A better outcome for your pet
A less stressful experience for the owners bringing the animal to the practice!

Castration "Implants" - what is it all about?

biltonvets@gmail.com (Tom Waterworth) — Fri, 18 Mar 2022 21:46:41 GMT

What is "Castration" and why is it performed?

Castration is generally used as the term for the (permanent) surgical removal of the male gonads (the testicles) and is usually performed for behavioural modification of entire male dogs.

Around puberty (this can be from 5-6m old onwards) the male hormone testosterone can be responsible for quite a few undesirable traits in male dogs, including:

Hypersexual behaviour such as "leg humping", mounting other dogs, urine marking, masturbation type behaviour etc
Competitive type behaviour with regarding other dogs - particular other entire male dogs.
Possibly more tendency for conflict episodes with other dogs
Increased chance of roaming (to seek out mates) and this can mean escaping from gardens, running of from walks etc. It is noticed that entire male dogs tend to be involved in more car accidents as they are often out when/where they shouldn't be!
In some animals, it is possible that the testosterone can speed up an aggressive response, and delay the return to the normal calm state

Castration is usually done to try and reduce/prevent some of these traits. It has been shown that reducing testosterone levels can reduced inter-male aggression by up to 60%.

Is the castration permanent?

Very simply - surgical castration obviously is! We usually find that after the surgery, testosterone levels drop quite quickly over 3-6w and people often notice positive changes shortly after the surgery.

Are people happy with the outcome?

Overwhelmingly, we get very positive feedback from owners that have had their dogs castrated as they feel that the benefits to the dog and human relationship are dramatic.

Are there any circumstances where you do NOT recommend castration?

Potentially there is. If you have a male dog and you are not having any of the problems defined in the first section, then there is often no specific need to have your dog castrated! Many male dogs do not exhibit these types of unwanted behaviours and so these really do not "need" to be done. There are some possible health benefits from not being castrated, although these have to be balanced by looking at those health benefits that do occur by being castrated. For example, with an entire dog, there is a reduced chance of getting prostate cancer, but an increased risk of developing a condition called BPH (Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia) that can be equally troublesome! These are things we suggest discussing with your vet.

There is also some discussion nowadays about whether castrating dogs with some nervous/anxiety/confidence problems can actually make matters worse. It is interesting to note that there is still a lot of debate amongst behavioural specialists as to how much significance castration actually has on these types of problems. It is generally widely accepted that "more research" is needed before hard and fast conclustions can be made.

What about the "non-surgical" implant?

There is now a implant containing Deslorelin, which is a hormone that effectively reduces the levels of circulating testosterone. It is a form of non-surgical castration. There are two types of implants, a 4.7mg implant that lasts around 6 months, and a 9.4mg implant that lasts around 12 months.

These implants are injected under the skin just like a microchip via a wide bore needle. The injection can sting a little and so we do tend to pop a muzzle on the dogs and try and distract them with some treats whilst we do it. It usually is done just in a normal consultation and only takes a few seconds to do.

The effect of the Deslorelin implant pretty much exactly mimics the effects of surgical castration whilst only being a temporary intervention. The benefit of this is that you can "test the water" of how your dog may behave should he be castrated.

This approach is popular for those owners who are uncertain if the surgical castration is the right option for their dog - the main advantage being that if you don't like the results, the effects will self-reverse after 6-12m (depending on the size of implant used.)

It is a suitable alternative in the long-term?

Whilst in theory it is perfectly safe to use this as a long term and repeatable alternative to surgical castration, we generally do not recommend it based mainly on cost.

At time of writing (March 2022) the cost of the implants are £126.43 and £240.28 for the two different sizes. This would need to be repeated every 6 or 12 months, whereas the surgical cost of castration is between £165 and £240 (depending on the size of your dog). So it is obviously a most cost effective option to undergo the surgical option if you are considering neutering in the long-term.

This choice is obviously down to the owner, and there has been some circumstances where long-term implant use has been recommended - such as in patients whom surgery may to deemed too risky for example.

How do you suggest I proceed if I have concerns about castration for my dog?

If you are uncertain as to whether castration is the right path for your dog, or you are having behavioural issues then we suggest the following:

These dogs should undergo a behaviour assessment before any further action is taken.
Assess if it is felt that behaviour is being influenced by circulating testosterone.
Could there be other causes for the behaviour?

If it is felt that circulating testosterone is likely to be influencing the behaviour, then surgical castration may well be considered as part of the treatment plan.

For dogs where the likely behavioural effect of neutering is not clear or uncertain (particularly where there is a risk that castration may exacerbate any traits ) then we suggest:

Management and behavioural modification first
Consider using the non-permanent implant first as the effects are not permanent and reversible if undesirable effects are seen.

Interestingly, with most of our cases recently where owners have tried the implant first as they are uncertain of the response, have been pleased with the effect and have reported an overwhelmingly positive result. We also hear that owners have felt reassured after the implant that they know how their pet will respond to the surgical/permanent procedure.

How do I go ahead arranging an implant?

If you want to go ahead with the implant and have had the behaviour advice that you require, then we suggest that you phone and book a normal appointment with the vet. We have had recently some supply issues with the medication and so we suggest that we actually order you one in specifically (if we haven't got one in stock) and then only book the appointment once it has arrived. Please talk to reception or our nursing team for more information.

If you have any concerns, or want to ask more questions then please book and appointment with any of our vets or nurses and we are happy to discuss things further with you.

Animals in War

Mon, 01 Nov 2021 00:15:02 GMT

They served too...

1914 and the World is at War. It is hailed as the bloodiest conflict of human history. Statistics are varied, but it is estimated that nine million service personnel were killed in the conflict, and over twenty million injured. Millions more died in the trenches from disease or went missing. Civilian deaths numbered in the tens of millions, although the true numbers will probably never be known.

The conflict lasted four years and changed the socioeconomic landscape of Great Britain forever, and for most people both domestic and serving, their lives would never be the same again. Along with the human cost, some eight million horses, donkeys, and mules and one million dogs also perished in the first world war, along with many hundreds of smaller animals, their suffering equally as great as the men and women they served alongside of.

Horses

Horses, donkeys, and mules were the life blood of the cavalry. Technologies and firearm capabilities were rapidly expanding, and the sort of weaponry now gracing the battlefields of the early 20 ^th century, brought unprecedented carnage and destruction to anyone or anything that stood in its way. It was clear that horses were no match for the awesome destructive power of machine guns, heavy weapons, and fortresses of barbed wire, but despite this, generals at the Somme, still nostalgic for the era of the cavalry charge, ordered men and horses into the firing line with devastating consequences. In 1918 at the battle of Moreuil Wood, 150 horses were sent into battle against the German machine guns, only 4 survived.

The British Army had recruited both working animals and family pets from the civilian population. The minimum height requirement for a horse was fifteen hands, and they were selected on breed type and capabilities, with heavier horses favoured over lighter thoroughbred types, as they were considered hardier and more capable of harder work. Conscription was compulsory unless an owner could prove a horse served an essential public service such as food delivery or agriculture where no viable alternative existed to replace it, and even then, many farmers had to lobby the government to be allowed to keep their animals.

The life of a war horse was brutal. Many died before even reaching the battlefields due to poor conditions on the ships that transported them to Europe. Sickness and dehydration were commonplace, overcrowding caused injuries from falling or being kicked. Transporter ships were often targeted by torpedoes or attacks from aircraft resulting in sinking of the carrier ships and consequential loss of all on board, both human and animal. Those not killed in frontline action were often subjected to horrendous living and working conditions alongside the soldiers they served.

Many succumbed to disease due to lack of appropriate food and incorrect animal husbandry. Conditions such as colic, mud fever, laminitis and rain scald were common, and horses regularly suffered infections from dirty wounds and non-healing injuries. Horses, donkeys and mules were heavily relied upon for transportation and supplies, as they could tackle terrain that was impassable by vehicles and were a crucial lifeline to men in the trenches to bring them supplies, food and arms. Their payloads were often well in excess of what they could haul. Animals, weak with malnutrition or illness would collapse, unable to regain their feet, they would be shot where they lay. Horse meat was a common food source for hungry soldiers, especially when food was in short supply.

Only around 6% of the horses conscripted from the UK to the war effort returned after the war. Repatriation of horses was deemed too costly, and soldiers were forced to abandon the animals they had become so attached too. Some took it upon themselves to humanely despatch them to save them from the butcher’s knife, but most were either abandoned in fields where they died of their injuries and starvation or were sold to slaughterers. For the few that did return, many were severely traumatised by their experiences or suffered long term lameness, injury or ill health due to gas exposure. Psychological trauma was not commonly recognised or acknowledged in either men or animals in the early part of the 20 ^th century, and traumatised animals were just considered as ‘mad’ and were duly shot.

The role of the horse in the cavalry today is primarily a ceremonial one, although they are still trained in formation riding and duties such as working in harness at speed. Even sports horses of today owe their beginnings to the warhorse, as it was the cavalry that first introduced disciplined riding which formed the foundation of dressage as we know it today. Show jumping and cross country were also borne from the skills of the warhorse as cavalry men competed at challenges to show whose horses were the bravest and could jump the highest, skills that trained them for the battlefield. In the UK, modern day horses are kept primarily for competition and racing, with a large number of horses now kept for leisure and companionship; their use in agriculture and transportation having long since been replaced by motor vehicles and machinery. The only horses regularly seeing active duty today are police horses, who are used primarily for crowd control or to police areas inaccessible by motor vehicle.

Dogs

Long regarded as man’s best friend, the dog was not only companion and friend, but guardian, rescuer and messenger to the men in the trenches. Intelligent and faithful, canines were deployed in a number of rolls such as transporting medical supplies to the wounded in the battlefield, carrying messages from communication trenches to outposts, bringing in post and food rations in small carts over terrain cut off from flooding and mud that had been made impassable even on horseback. Dogs acted as guardians, warning of approaching danger, sniffing out explosives and defending trench lines against enemy insurgents. They also kept vermin down by killing rats. Scouting dogs accompanied soldiers on foot patrols and reconnaissance missions. These individuals were very calm in nature and were trained to work in silence. Often able to detect the enemy up to 1,000 feet away, these dogs would signal danger by standing still, stiffening their body posture and hold their tails out straight, similar to working dogs today who ‘point’ in the sports field.

Dogs were a constant source of companionship to the terrified men of the trenches and even provided a source of warmth to the lonely night watchman keeping vigil at dawn and dusk ‘stand to’, the name given to the time of day when patrols stood watch for enemy activity. Mascot dogs were used in ceremonies and were often the pride of the battalion, but far from being purely for show, these individuals were selected for their docile nature and gentleness. These dogs were trained to provide comfort to injured and traumatised soldiers, who were grateful for the distraction from the horrors of warfare. Dogs today fulfil similar rolls in hospitals and care homes, or to people rehabilitating from illness, and even though dogs are far less likely to see frontline combat today, they still work to provide therapy to returning war veterans suffering from post-traumatic stress disorder as a result of combat.

Dogs lived in the same conditions as the men, often their diets were poor, and like the men were susceptible to infestations of lice and fleas carried by rats. Weils disease, or Leptospirosis as it is correctly known, is transmitted in rat urine and affects both dogs and humans and is recorded as having been present in the trenches on the Western Front. It is easily preventable in dogs today by vaccination, but during that time, vaccines had yet to be invented, meaning that dogs would have almost certainly succumb to the disease and sadly, would have themselves, become a source of infection to their masters. Forced to live in unsanitary conditions both dogs and soldiers would have inevitably shared bacterial infections common to both.

Dogs were often victims of landmines and trip wires as they worked taking messages to and from command posts. Those that did survive were often severely injured, and loss of limb was common. Some dogs underwent surgery to treat their injuries, but all too often, injuries from landmines, sniper bullets and shrapnel meant that many dogs were inevitably shot by their handlers to prevent further suffering. This left huge emotional scars on the men whose companionship they relied on.

Many dogs were deemed surplus to requirement when the war ended, and orders were to destroy them. Some soldiers managed to bring their companions home, a select few were granted permission to return, for the rest, they were often secretly smuggled aboard transport lorries and boats.

Thankfully, although dogs do still serve in the military today, their welfare is paramount. Their job is not without risk, as dogs are still used to sniff out explosives, but increasingly, advances in technology means our canine friends are much less likely to be put in harm’s way. Dogs still work today in search and rescue, the police, crime detection and border control and increasingly in medicine and in service to the disabled, but mostly as our companions.

Birds

Birds played a crucial role in both the first and second world war. During the First World War 100,000 homing pigeons were used to carry messages from the allies and were crucial to communications. At a time when sabotage and interception of telephone and coded messages by the enemy were a daily occurrence, the homing pigeon became the fastest, most effective method of messaging. Because of their size, their speed and the heights they flew at, pigeons made difficult targets to hit. Their success rate was over 95% . These animals were highly prized and worth a lot of money. To harm or kill a homing pigeon was a criminal offence and perpetrators faced a hefty fine or a six-month jail sentence for harming or killing a pigeon. In the second world war, thirty-two birds were given medals for distinguished service. Each animal was named, ringed and had its own service record. Many animals showed quite extraordinary feats of achievement arriving at their destinations often badly injured or maimed, many succumb to their injuries. Special transport boxes were made to ensure maximum safety when transporting the birds to the front.

Homing pigeons today are used almost entirely for racing, and much of their contribution to the success of both wars has been forgotten, now superseded by advances in technology and communication. The contribution of the humble homing pigeon is documented with an exhibit at Bletchley Park, the home of wartime intelligence of the second world war.

A little thought of contributor to the war effort is the canary. The small bird did not occupy nearly such a prestigious place as the homing pigeon, and yet it’s contribution to the war is one that should never be underestimated or forgotten. Whilst war in the trenches raged on the Western Front, below ground, battles no less intense than those above ground raged in tunnel wars. Tunnels were dug to undermine enemy positions by blowing up trench lines and strategic strongholds. Tunnel collapses were common, and one of the biggest dangers faced by miners from underground explosions and cave in’s, was gases, lethal pockets of methane and carbon monoxide. Odourless and colourless gases proved fatal to the men and the rescue teams sent in to retrieve them. Canaries were constant companions as men dug, their sensitivity to low oxygen levels served as an early warning system to tunnellers that they needed to put on gas masks or leave the area. In rescue missions, they were lowered into shafts and gangways to test the air before sending in men to rescue stranded miners. The birds were suspended in cages for up to 5 minutes. If the birds came up alive, the air was good, and it was safe to send men in. Thankfully, canaries are no longer used to test for poisonous gases, and now occupy a place in our affections as pets, but they are often forgotten about when people think of animals who served and died in the First World War.

Other animals played their part too...

All sorts of animals served in both the first and the second world war. Elephants, Goats, Camels, and Lama’s all served as pack animals throughout the nations of the world. Animals served in so many ways, be it by being beasts of burden, guardian and protector, messenger and friend. There are many photographs and anecdotal reports of soldiers befriending cats, kittens and puppies, or soldiers making pets from other creatures such as rabbits and even squirrels.

A little known fact...

At the beginning of World War Two 750,000 pet cats and dogs were euthanased in ONE WEEK following the publication of a government pamphlet. The pamphlet had advised people that in the event of an air raid if provision could not be made for the animal to be moved to the country or cared for by a neighbour, then the kindest thing to do was to destroy it. Warnings of food rationing meant many owners feared they would not be able to feed their families, never mind a pet, and people were discouraged from keeping pets as it was considered an indulgence and an unnecessary luxury. Veterinary surgeons, the RSPCA and the PDSA were overwhelmed with animals being dumped or presented for euthanasia.

Many vets, nurses and animal orderlies were left traumatised by their grim task.

Hope for the future

Examples of animals working alongside humans in war appear throughout history. Our use, and sometimes abuse of animals in warfare is controversial, but in the horrors of war there is perhaps still some hope for humanity when man can still find affection for animals.

The War Horse’s Prayer.

To serve them all my days

To serve until the end,

Be thou forever near me

My master and my friend.

COVID Catch-Up Offer

Wed, 21 Jul 2021 12:53:38 GMT

During Lockdown last year, we were severely restricted in the work that we were able to perform. This meant, that whilst priority was given to emergencies and urgent care, quite a lot of the routine aspects to our veterinary healthcare was hindered.

Once of the main areas that ended up being neglected was routine vaccinations. As a result of this, a lot of animals missed their annual booster vaccination. This has meant that we now have quite a severe backlog of dogs and cats who are either overdue or certainly due their vaccines urgently.

Why is this a problem for the animals?

Whilst we know that some aspects of an animal's vaccine protection does last longer than 12 months, it is well documented that other parts need to be repeat every 12-15 months.

In dogs it is important that the DISTEMPER, HEPATITIS and PARVOVIRUS (DHP) is repeated every 3 years, and LEPTOSPIROSIS is needed to be done every 12-15m. With some animals now being nearly 12m overdue, this means that it could be 4 years since their last DHP jab, and 2 years since their last LEPTO jab! A similar occurrence could emerge with cats and CAT FLU, ENTERITIS and LEUKAEMIA jabs taking on a similar pattern.

What we don't want to happen is the overall immunity of these dogs and cats to be compromised individually. It is also a worry that if the generalised vaccination level amongst the pets drops (so called "herd-immunity" ), then localised outbreaks are more likely to occur, which puts additional risks to unvaccinated animals, as well as the young, elderly and infirm.

Why is this a problem for our practice?

The timing of this is a problem. We have ended up with a perfect storm of:

Catching up with a nearly a years worth of vaccines suddenly needing to be done quite urgently.
Continuing to keep up with the normal vaccines that would be due at this time anyway.
The fact that rather than the vaccine work-load being spread evenly throughout the year, we are going to find ongoing vaccinations are going to be "bunched" in the summer months.
We are still quite short staffed - there is a recruitment crisis in the profession and we are still effectively a full time vet down.
Like many industries, we have also been effected with child-care issues, self-isolation and the "ping-demic".
The summer months are often our busiest times anyway as animals are often sicker at this time of year.
We are also struggling to make sure that all the staff can fit their holiday in, meaning we often have more people off than we would prefer.
Very flatteringly, a lot of clients want to register with us! Whilst this is lovely, this has also put pressure on our appointment system.

All of this means that we have found it very hard to be able to continue to offer both vaccination appointments AND "sick pet" appointments throughout the day.

So, why the Special Offer?

We have introduced these "COVID Catch-Up" clinics to try and ease the backlog of vaccination appointments. This means that:

We can try and ensure that we are keeping the dogs and cats of Rugby healthy and protected.
We can utilise our lovely vet Savi, who has come out of retirement to help us during these challenging times.
We can (hopefully) free up some more "sick-pet" appointments with the other vets during the day, meaning we can offer clients more "same-day" appointments and see urgent cases in a more timely fashion.
We can take advantage of the fact that many owners do not have concurrent concerns with their animals, and so we can utilise shorter appointment times.
We can offer a discount to the cost of these appointments to reflect the fact that less veterinary time is required.

What if have health concerns about my pet?

We are still offering the normal priced "standard" appointments where you are welcome to discuss any concerns that you may have with your pet. These can still be booked with reception as normal.

Pet owners warned about microchipping scam

biltonvets@gmail.com (Tom Waterworth) — Tue, 13 Jul 2021 12:53:55 GMT

Vets are warning pet owners about a website that is falsely claiming to register pets to a national microchip database.

The Chartered Trading Standards Institute (CTSI) has issued a warning about the website, called UK Pet Chip Registry, which is advertised under Google search results for ‘pet microchipping’.

Despite calls from duped pet owners for the website to be taken down, the site remains active and is prominently positioned on Google as a promoted advert.

The service claims that for a charge of £15, it will add the pet's microchip details to the so-called ‘ National Pet Microchip Registration Database’ . However, that database does not meet UK Government standards and is not on the list of government-endorsed pet databases .

CTSI Lead Officer for Animal Welfare, Steph Young, said: "It is vital that when purchasing a puppy, members of the public must register the chip on one of the 15 databases verified by the UK Government. If they do not, they risk a fine of up to £500.

"The database quoted by UK Pet Chip Registry does not conform to UK Government standards, and signing up to it alone puts the user at risk of a fine and the needless cost of the money used to pay for it. The public should always follow government guidance, not paid-for adverts on search engines."

Where can I check the list of authorised pet databases?

Click here to check the list of pet databases authorised by the UK Government. For consumer advice, please call the Citizens Advice Consumer Helpline on 0808 223 1133

Kennel Cough in Dogs

biltonvets@gmail.com (Tom Waterworth) — Wed, 30 Jun 2021 15:07:06 GMT

We are currently experiencing a high number of cases of Kennel Cough in the Rugby area. Read on to find out more

What is Kennel Cough?

Kennel Cough is a respiratory infection cauesd by a combination of a Virus (Parainfluenza) and a Bacteria (Bordetella Brochiseptica) .
It is highly contagious and can spread easily between dogs in contact with each other.
It ISN'T just limited to Kennels, any contact can cause spread.
It is rarely dangerous and usually is self-limiting and clears up on its own in a few weeks.
However, young puppies, elderly animals and those with underlying heart or lung conditions may be at higher risk of complications.
The incubation period of Kennel Cough (the time taken between catching the illness and showing signs)is between 2 and 14 days .
This means that dog can be infectious, whilst not showing outward signs .

What the symptoms of Kennel Cough?

Dogs with Kennel Cough normally have a dry and honking cough . It can often be triggered by:

Barking.
Movement - eg waking up.
Pulling on collar and lead.
Sudden change in air temperature.

The cough itself often ends with a marked retch or gag at the end of a coughing fit . We often get people thinking that the dog has something stuck in their throat.

A cough can often be triggered by a gentle pinch of their airway under their neck - called a pinch test .

The "dry" signs of kennel cough are different from other types of respiratory sounds such as Reverse Sneezing (common in toy/small breeds) or wet types of cough often seen with heart disease or pneumonia.

The clip below is pretty typical of a dog with Kennel Cough:

Are there any other signs?

Most dogs that have Kennel Cough are well in themselves, but just have a nasty cough. Other signs we can see include:

Restlessness - often due to lack of sleep.
High temperature.
Off food.
Lethargic.
Occasionally may have runny eyes.
Occasionally may have sneezing too.

Is Kennel Cough Dangerous?

In nearly all cases the illness will go away on its own accord without intervention or deterioration. In some more vulnerable animals (see first paragraph), the condition can progress into more serious illness.

How is Kennel Cough Diagnosed?

There is no easy or simple way to diagnose Kennel Cough. It is normally done on the history, the presenting signs and the clinical examination. In most cases we will presumptively diagnose Kennel Cough based on these facts alone. Also we expect cases to improve, so we become more concerned about other problems if the symtoms or time spans don't fit.

How is it treated?

Nearly all cases of Kennel Cough clear up on their own accord with no specific veterinary treatment. Antibiotics have not been shown to improve the recovery of non-complicated cases.

We normally advise that if Kennel Cough is suspected that you:

Remove any collars or harnesses from them and leave them off at all times
Do not take out for exercise and keep rested at home.
Allow to eat and drink normally. Offer fluids regularly
Do not allow to mix with other dogs until you are sure your dog is better.
Allowing them to inhale warm steam can help - have a hot shower/bath and make sure the windows are closed and the extractors fans are off!
Keep your pet warm and comfortable but in a well ventilated area.
Try and limit barking and movement as much as possible.
Occasionally we may use cough suppressants or anti-inflammatories as this can make your pet feel a bit better and sleep easier.

When do you need to call the vet?

As we have said, most cases of Kennel Cough are self limiting and don't require specific treatment - just time. If you pet is otherwise well, then you don't need to seek immediate veterinary attention. However, you may want to call us if:

Your dog has had a cough that has gone on for longer than 3-4 weeks
Your dog is coughing and is unwell - ie not eating or drinking.
Your pet is actually having difficulty breathing - THIS IS OFTEN AN EMERGENCY.
You are aware that your pet has existing heart/lung problems.
There is any kind of discharge from the nose that isn't clear - such as cloudy, purulent, bloody etc.

If you are worried and don't know what to do - then always feel free to give us a ring and we can advise if you need a vet visit or not!

What about vaccinations?

You can vaccinnate dogs again Kennel Cough and this can be done at the time of normal routine annual jabs or separately on their own. If you dog HAS Kennel Cough you can attempt to give the vaccine to them and it may have an effect on shortening the duration of the illness. The vaccine lasts for 12m once given.

It is a spray up the nose (which most dogs hate) but the good news is later this year we hope to be switching to an injectable variant which is much easier to administer and is tolerated by the dogs so much better!

Farewell Jenny

biltonvets@gmail.com (Tom Waterworth) — Tue, 25 May 2021 18:28:38 GMT

Goodbye and Good Luck!

The end of May saw us say a sad farewell to Jenny Grief. Jenny, started off as a locum with us a few years back and we managed to convince her to stay on in a permanent role at the beginning of 2020. Jenny joined us full time just as the country went into full lockdown and was a huge asset to our practice during the past difficult 12 months and COVID.

A hugely competent GP vet, Jenny was able to turn her hand to pretty much anything medical or surgical and we were always grateful for her cheery disposition and no-nonsense attitude. Popular with staff and clients she quickly built up a good reputation locally.

She always wanted to live and work by the sea - and so Rugby wasn't really going to be an ideal location as far as this is concerned! Thank you for all your hard work Jenny over the past few years, and we all wish you the very best of luck in your new adventure on the South Coast.

Cut the Crop

Thu, 18 Mar 2021 16:31:17 GMT

Stop ear cropping: support the #CutTheCrop campaign

There has been a recent rise in the number of dogs with cropped ears in the UK. Influencers and online personalities are buying dogs with cropped ears and showing them off to their millions of followers.

The recent spike in cases is cause for concern. We want to educate people about the cruel realities of this illegal process, the effect it has on dogs and the appropriate steps you should take when purchasing a dog.

What is Ear Cropping?

Ear cropping is an illegal mutilation that serves no benefit to dogs. It is also known as docking or clipping. Cropping is an unnecessary procedure where part of the dog’s ear is cut off. The dog’s ear is then sometimes attached to a hard surface in order to shape them into an upright position, this process is known as splinting.

It’s often performed on such as Mastiff’s and Doberman’s, purely for cosmetic reasons and serves no benefit to the dog.

What is wrong with Ear Cropping?

Cropping dog’s ears is illegal in the UK under the Animal Welfare Act as it causes unnesscary suffering. Ear cropping is often performed by unqualified people without pain relief, which can be agonizing for the dog. Because of the unlicenced nature of the procedure, dogs are likely to catch infections as their painful wounds heal.

Aside from inflicting unnecessary pain, cropping removes a dog's ability to communicate how they’re feeling. Dogs use their ears to tell us if they are feeling happy or stressed. When a large part of their ear is removed, communicating their emotions can be difficult.

Some people will claim that ear cropping has benefits for dogs, such as lowering the risk of ear infection and improving their hearing. These claims are not backed by scientific research and there is no evidence to support them.

Why is ear cropping becoming more popular?

Celebrity influencers such as Love Island’s Jack Fincham and Little Mix’s Leigh-Anne Pinnock have recently showcased their pet dog’s with cropped ears to their massive online following.

In recent years, the power of influencers has been evident when it comes to dictating trends. Intentional or not, online influencers are glamourising ear cropping, even though it is illegal in the UK.

Dog’s who have had their ears cropped are percieved as ‘tough’ and this look has subsequently become desirable among the large fan bases of influencers. Ear cropping is associated with being cool and up to date with the latest trends, which has undoubtedly led to an increase in ear cropping as followers look to replicate their favourite celebrities.

How you can help stop ear cropping?

If you are looking to purchase breeds such as Mastiffs or Dobermans, please do your research. Avoid breeders that have imported dogs with cropped ears.

We want to stop ear cropping, that’s why we’re supporting the British Vets Association’s #CutTheCrop campaign. Ear cropping is an illegal mutilation that brings unnecessary suffering to dogs, please help to end ear cropping by signing the petition .

Pet Theft Advice

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Fri, 26 Feb 2021 17:40:43 GMT

Lots of us have welcomed a furry friend into our lives in the past year. With lockdown meaning that many of us are spending more time at home, the demand for puppies and dogs has skyrocketed.

Unfortunately, the popularity of pooches has led to a rise in dog theft, with thieves looking to cash in while demand is at an all-time high. Whilst we think that social media and the news is exaggerating the degree with which this is taking place, we thought that we would try and give some balanced advice.

Thankfully, there are lots of preventative measures you can take to reduce your dog’s chances of being stolen.

We’ve put together our best advice for keeping your dog safe. We’ve also included a helpful infographic that you can save and share on social media to keep other owners informed.

Report suspicious behaviour

Be vigilant and keep an eye out for suspicious behaviour. Although no two thefts are the same, there are some telltale signs that dog thieves are operating in the area.

Report people acting suspiciously in parks. Anyone stopping dog owners and asking them lots of questions about their dog could be identifying potential targets.

Report people leaving marks in front of houses. There are reports of thieves leaving chalk or spray paint markings in front of houses they intend to target.

Keep an eye on local community groups and online message boards. Dog owners will often report suspicious behaviour to help keep others safe.

Don’t hesitate to contact the police by calling 101 if you witness any suspicious behaviour.

Don’t leave your dog unattended

Leaving your dog unattended can make them vulnerable to dog thieves. Take the following advice into consideration to help keep your dog safe.

Try to avoid leaving your dog tied up outside shops or in other public spaces. This makes them an easy target for dog thieves.

Don’t leave your dog alone in the car, even if it’s only for a few minutes. You should always take your pet home before popping to the shops if you’re on your own. Thieves can easily break into your car and take your dog.

Make sure your garden is secure. Keep an eye on your dog when they are in the garden, try not to leave them unsupervised.

Install security cameras. If dog thefts are common in your area, consider installing cameras on your property.

Make sure your dog can be identified

Of course, thieves aren’t the only reason that dogs go missing. Sometimes a dog’s adventurous nature can get the better of them. There are several useful things you can do to ensure your dog has the best chance of returning to you safely if they ever go missing.

Make sure your dog is microchipped. Dogs must be microchipped by the time they are eight weeks old, according to UK law. This helps them to be identified if they get brought into a vet.

Make sure your dog is wearing a collar and has an accurate ID tag. Your dog’s ID tag should have your name and address on it. This is a legal requirement if you take your dog to public spaces. A mobile number is also useful, although not a requirement.

Avoid putting your dog’s name on their ID tag, as this could lead to thieves calling their name to coax the dog over, giving thieves a false sense of familiarity with the dog.

Keep your contact details updated, if you change your phone number or move house, be sure to update the information on your dog’s ID tag.

Take plenty of photos of your dog. Make sure to regularly take clear pictures from different angles, detailing distinctive markings, just in case. Having lots of photos of yourself with your dog will help to prove that you are the owner.

Make sure your dog comes back when called. Spend plenty of time doing recall training with your dog. If your dog struggles with recall, it’s safer to keep them on the lead.

What should I do if my dog goes missing?

If your dog does go missing, you should report it immediately. The sooner that you get information out there, the better. Here’s a checklist of who you should inform:

The police, by calling 101

Your neighbours

Your online community dog walking page

Your local council

Your vet and other local practices

Local animal rescue centres

The database with which your dog’s microchip is registered

If you post online or make a poster to put around your local area, you should include a recent, clear photo of your dog.

Share as much information as possible: details of when and where your dog went missing; if they have any distinctive markings; if they were wearing a harness/coat.

Leave your contact details so that people can reach you if they have any information.

How to keep your dog safe infographic

Pandemic Puppies

Fri, 22 Jan 2021 13:54:06 GMT

Getting a new pet at any time is a big decision, and with the current lockdown restriction, there are even more things to consider.

Where to get your new pet?

It is important to go to a reputable breeder, and to ‘meet, either in person or virtually, the mother to the pups, and see the puppies interacting with their litter mates, and mum in their natural environment.

Ensure you have a record of any vaccines and flea and wormer given to your puppy prior to purchase.

Your puppy should be microchipped before purchase – it is illegal for any breeder to sell a puppy that is not microchipped, and registered on a UK database. Make sure you get a record of the microchip and to which company it is registered to, so any details can be updated accordingly.

Rescue centres area also a great place to find a new pet. Here, dogs and cats are likely to be fully vaccinated (or at least have had their first vaccination) and be neutered, Behavioural assessments are often carried out prior to rehoming, so you are able to be matched with a dog that will be compatible with your lifestyle and any pets already in the home environment.

Lucy’s Law came into place in April 2020, meaning that anyone wanting to get a new puppy or kitten in England, must now buy direct from a breeder, or adopt from a rescue centre instead. If a business sells puppies or kittens without a license, they could receive an unlimited fine or be sent to prison for up to 6 months.

Please do your research into breeds prior to getting a new dog. Consider the size, activity level, lifestyle and price of the dog you are wanting to purchase. Some breeds are not suitable for first time dog owners.

Puppy prices have soared during the pandemic, so please make sure you either put money aside for unexpected vet bills, or get your puppy insured so you can provide them with optimal health care to support their needs.

There is more information about choosing a puppy and how to spot scams and puppy farms in our Puppy Portal section .

The home environment

It is essential that your home is safe for your new addition.

The garden must be free from toxic plants, gates must be secure, and water sources fenced off. Indoors, wires should be covered and medications must be stored out of reach. Ensure your puppy has a safe sleeping environment where it feels comfortable – a crate or a room, and that they have a set bedtime routine to aid them feeling secure at night.

Again, we have a detailed section in our Puppy Portal section that covers socialisation in much more detail.

Socialisation and training

There are lots of tips to help your dog get used to different sounds and experiences during the pandemic.

Traffic noises – before your puppy is able to go out on walks (typically 1 week after its 2 ^nd vaccination) you can carry them in your arms or in a baby sling.

Prams and bikes – again prior to full vaccination, you can sit in the park with your puppy in your arms, and watch the world go by.

Walking in areas where your puppy will see other dogs, in a socially distanced manner, will aid them acting in an appropriate manner in communal areas.

Examination techniques – imitate the techniques performed when we examine your pets. Look in their ears by lifting their ear flaps, play with their feet to simulate a nail clip or placing an intravenous catheter.

Tooth brushing is an important part of a puppy’s daily routine and is a great bonding exercise for you and your puppy.

Crate training or leaving your puppy alone for regular intervals helps your puppy get used to a daily routine like what would be experienced on a normal working day. Make the crate a fun area for your pup by providing Kong toys or snuffle mats to keep them entertained and occupied.

Sit in the car with your puppy even if you aren’t going on a journey! Providing a treat or toy while your puppy is calmly sat in the car can help them feel at ease. Repeating this on a daily basis makes them aware that this again is normal, and will help them when going on car journeys.

Desensitisation music such as Sounds Scary by the Dogs Trust , or Calm Pet on YouTube have daily sounds and more fearful but commonly heard noises, and these can help them get used to loud noises from a young age.

Changes of circumstances?

If and when coronavirus restrictions are lifted, and those of you working from home return to the office, will you still have enough times to take your dog for regular, daily exercise and will they be able to cope with being left at home for long periods of time? Will you be able to find a daily dog walker? Do you have suitable provisions for when you go on holiday?

If you have any questions regarding purchasing a puppy, please call us to discuss any queries. We look forward to meeting your new puppy!

Post Brexit Travel Changes

biltonvets@gmail.com (Tom Waterworth) — Thu, 14 Jan 2021 20:16:05 GMT

Pet Passports are NO LONGER valid to travel from the UK into the EU

From Jan 1st 2021, Britain has left the EU and this has had a profound effect on the way in which people can take their pets abroad.

The old style "Pet Passports" are no longer valid - and instead you will need to apply for a new Animal Health Certificate (AHC). These are a much more complicated and expensive document and sadly has to be repeated for EACH trip you make from the UK to the EU.

In order to try and explain this process a bit more effectively, we have move all the information to a separate page in our Advice section.

Firework Advice

Wed, 07 Oct 2020 16:56:07 GMT

Firework season is nearly upon us...

T he nights are drawing in and firework season approaches, bringing with it a mixture of pleasure for some and anxiety for others as their animals struggle to cope during this period.

Small Furries...

You can help to set your pets up for success by ensuring that all small furries (Rabbits, Guinea Pigs etc) are safely secured away with lots of bedding material within which to hide and food and water access nearby. Consider draping some blankets or old carpets over any hutches to help muffle and deaden any loud noises. If possible consider bringing them inside or moving their enclosure to a more sheltered area for the expected noisy nights.

Cats...

Ensure your cat is indoors and has been fed before the onset of the fireworks each night. Various hiding places throughout the house with a toileting facility nearby will add to their comfort as they may be reluctant to move far from their safe place for the duration of the evening. Remember that cats like high places and these sorts of locations often can make them feel more secure. Consider strategic placement of some bedding up on a cupboard or wardrobe?

Dogs..

These are the animals that often struggle the most. If you have an anxious or noise phobic dog it is a good idea to start to prepare for this time well in advance. Desensitisation CD's or similar online resources are available and if used appropriately can be useful to help treat noise phobias. As a general overview they are designed to be played in the background at very low levels so they do not emit a response and are gradually turned up over time providing no behavioural response occurs.

Shutting the curtains and turning up the television can help to minimise the noise and lights from outside and to keep the indoor environment stable. It is said that Reggae music is best as it has a regular thumping beat...??!!

There are some dogs which actually respond better if you open a window at the front and back of the house - this helps them "localise" where the noise is coming from and also helps reduce the pressure wave that can be felt with the booms in a sealed house! This doesn't work with all dogs.

Build them a den!

Ensure they have a specific place in the house within which they feel safe - this may be a crate or a purpose built den which is covered, comfy and contains their favourite toys and treats. Get them used to going into this space to receive their favourite things and have lots of fuss so they already associate it with feelings of calm and contentment. Use lots of soft materials (such as cushions and blankets) to help muffle and dampen the noises of the fireworks. During the fireworks, if you pet wants to go and hide in the den - then let them do it! Do not try and coax them out.

Ensure that your dog is well exercised and has been to the toilet before the fireworks begin (do not force them outside when the fireworks are occurring). A meal rich in carbohydrate (such as pasta or potato) can also aid the feeling of satiety which can induce restfulness.

An anxious dog may seek comfort from you - if it seeks reassurance you should do this in a confident and calm manner (to refuse or to punish the dog because of this is likely to heighten the level of anxiety it is experiencing). However it is generally advised NOT to seek out or try to offer reassurance to your dog if he/she isn't actively seeking it out.

It is better to remain in the house with an anxious dog to prevent any injury (or house damage!) that may occur if left alone.

Some dogs may welcome a distraction during this time, such as play or training challenges but others may prefer to hide away. Allow the dog to engage in an appropriate activity it feels most comfortable with.

M edications

You can now buy our non-prescription VetPro Stress and Anxiety sprinkle capsules which are designed to support calm behaviour and ease anxiety. These can be very effective with both dogs and cats. Visit our online shop to find out more .

Cats can also benefit from pheromone diffusers which mimic the calming hormones emitted from cats are available to purchase over the counter or online Both of these are a natural pathway to helping your cat through these challenging times.

If you feel that despite these measures your dog may require further assistance or require prescription medication to help cope, then please contact the surgery to arrange a consultation with one of our vets.

One last thing...

MAKE SURE YOUR PETS ARE MICROCHIPPED AND YOUR CONTACT DETAILS ARE CORRECT!

Sadly - every year we hear stories of pets that run off as they are scared and then either get injured or picked up as "strays". PLEASE read our other blog about keeping your chip details up to date here.

Autumn Advice

Mon, 14 Sep 2020 08:27:30 GMT

Autumn advice for dog owners

The nights grow dark and the leaves grow yellow, there’s more rain than you’d like but still, there’s something lovely about Autumn, right?

Let's look at how to keep your dog safe and comfortable during the autumn.

Summary:

Stay visible when you're out walking your dog
Keep your dog protected against fleas
Keep antifreeze out of your dog's reach
Maintain your dog's healthy weight
Keep your dog nice and warm - especially older dogs
Get ready for Halloween and Bonfire Night

Stay visible on walks

In an ideal world, you'd walk your dog before dark - but as the days get shorter and shorter during the lead-up to winter, you may not have a choice.

To stay visible to drivers, cyclists and other people that are out walking, consider getting some reflective or high-visibility clothing for you and your dog.

You can also get quirky flashing lights to attach to your dog’s collar. This will help you keep an eye on them when you’re out and about after dark.

Fight those fleas

Many of us switch our central heating back on during the autumn, which is great news for pesky fleas . As it gets colder outside, fleas will make their way inside - getting comfortable, laying their eggs onto your dog's fur. The eggs will fall off your dog's fur at home and lurk in your carpets and beneath other nooks and crannies; they'll pass from the pupae stage to the larvae stage and become grown-up, bloodthirsty adult fleas before you know it.

Luckily, you can prevent this by making sure your dog is up to date with their parasite prevention treatments .

Remember: if your dog does get fleas, you'll need to treat your house too. Read more on how to check your dog for fleas .

Be wary of antifreeze

If your dog ingested antifreeze, they'd be at risk of acute kidney failure or even death. Pets enjoy the taste of antifreeze (especially cats) so it's important to keep antifreeze well out of their reach. If you spill antifreeze, be sure to clean it up immediately whether inside or outside.

Symptoms of antifreeze poisoning include:

Vomiting
Depression
Seizures
Difficulty breathing
Generally appearing uncoordinated

If your dog shows any of these signs, contact your vet right away.

Watch out for rock salt

If ingested, rock salt (or road grit) can cause dehydration and liver failure. To protect your dog from rock salt poisoning, make sure you wipe their feet and paws thoroughly after a walk.

M aintain your dog's healthy weight

With the dark nights and the cold, wet weather, our dogs' walks are usually a lot shorter during the autumn and winter months. This could increase their risk of weight gain.

To prevent your dog gaining weight , try monitoring their food intake. Stick to their recommended food allowance and avoid giving them too many treats or scraps.

Compensate for their reduced exercise by playing some fun indoor games - this will help to keep your dog's mind occupied too!

Keep your dog warm, especially if they're elderly

Older and thinner dogs feel the cold more than most.

A dog jacket will keep them warm and toasty when they’re out on walks. Also, when you get home from a walk, make sure you dry off your dog thoroughly.

At home, supply plenty of bedding, and aim to keep your dog's bed in a room that's warm, well-insulated and draught-free. This is especially important for dogs with arthritis.

And finally…get cosy!

Is there anything better than being inside on a rainy night, the fire roaring and your dog cuddled up to you?

For more info on keeping your dog safe, happy and healthy during the autumn, have a chat with one of our vets or nurses.

Getting Used to Face Masks

Fri, 03 Jul 2020 15:04:04 GMT

We know why wearing face masks in public is so important, but our dogs aren’t so sure...

Is your dog a little uneasy at the sight of people wearing face masks? Follow our step-by-step guide to getting them used to it.

Buy (or make) a face covering of your own

To turn face masks into something your dog will be familiar with, there’s no better place to start than at home.

Show your new mask to your dog

You don’t need to wear it – in fact, just holding the mask in your hand and simply showing it to your dog is a great start. Let them give it a closer look and a good old sniff, then reward them with a treat – this will help them associate the mask positively.

Put on your mask

Next, put on the mask in front of your dog. Wear it for just a few seconds first time round, and don’t do anything to spook your dog while you’re wearing it. Speak in an upbeat voice, and continue to reward your dog with treats.

Repeat this process

Assuming your dog is all okay with the above, continue to put on your mask in front of them – like it’s the most natural thing in the world. Begin to increase the amount of time you wear it. You’ll also want to increase your dog’s exposure by wearing your mask at different times of the day, and asking your family/household to do the same.

Remember to increase exposure gradually – don’t worry about going back a step if your dog is uncomfortable.

Walk into rooms while wearing your mask

Again, act casual as you do this. Once your dog registers you wearing your mask, reward them with a treat. As they get comfortable with this stage, begin leaving the house and then arriving home again while wearing your mask.

Seeing other people in masks

Now that your dog is completely comfortable seeing you and your family/household in a mask, you can be more confident while you’re out walking.

If you’re concerned, try bringing treats with you on your walks. Every time you encounter someone wearing a mask, provide your dog with a tasty snack – this will help them to continue their positive associations.

Practise makes perfect

Remember to take your time. You can always go back a step! If you’re especially worried about your dog, please do contact us today!

Cats and Coronavirus

Wed, 08 Apr 2020 10:31:59 GMT

Clarification on the situation with Cats and Coronavirus

There has been quite a lot of information in the news just recently about whether cats can be infected with Coronavirus, and whether they pose a risk to humans (and vice versa). Sadly there appears to be quite a bit of incorrect information flying around and so we thought we would just try and clarify the situation.

Can the virus affect pets/animals?

There is no evidence that Coronavirus can affect dogs. There have been a small number of cases where Coronavirus DNA was detected on dogs fur/respiratory systems, but this was thought to be more contamination from someone who was carrying the disease. These animals were not unwell.

It is thought that animals can act as "fomites" to spread the disease, in the same way that it can also be spread by inanimate objects such as door handles, phones etc.

It is for this reason that, as vets, you may see us wearing PPE whilst handling your pets or coming to talk to you - we are minimising the risk of disease transmission.

What about the story in the BBC this morning?

Some of you may have come across the article in the BBC and other news outlets this morning: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-52204534

Some of this information has been interpreted incorrectly and so we wanted to stress the current advice that is being given out by the British Veterinary Association:

The British Veterinary Association has clarified its position in light of a report on the BBC News Website relating to cats and Coronavirus. The headline of the article suggested that veterinary advice was to keep all cats indoors, but the BVA has explained this advice is only in relation to cats in infected households or where people are self isolating.

In response to questions from the BBC about general advice for pet owners, BVA had given information that related to both general advice and specific advice for those in infected households, but not had made the distinction clear.

BVA President Daniella Dos Santos has said:

"It's incredibly important that information and advice for the public is clear and we regret that this story will have caused worry and upset amongst cat owners."

"We are NOT advising that all cats are kept indoors. Only cats from infected households or where their owners are self-isolating, and ONLY IF THE CAT IS HAPPY TO BE KEPT INDOORS. Some cats cannot stay indoors due to stress-related medical reasons."

"There have been a tiny number of cases of COVID-19 in animals and in all cases, it is likely that the transmission was human to animal. There is no evidence that pets can pass COVID-19 to their owners."

"From the small number of cases it appears that dogs do not show symptoms, but cats can show clinical signs of the disease."

"It is also the case that animals can act as fomites, as the virus could be on their fur in the same way that it is on other surfaces, such as tables and doorknobs. That's why our main advice for pet owners is to practice good hand hygeine."

"And, as a precaution, for pet owners who have COVID-19 or who are self-isolating, we are recommending that you keep your cat indoors if possible, during that time."

"It is very important that people don't panic about their pets. There is no evidence that animals can pass the disease to humans"

What is your advice then?

Taking all the information on board, we would suggest the following practical tips to help you know what to do:

What about walking someone else's dog?

If your pet is ill and you think exposure to coronavirus has caused their symptoms, give us a call before your visit. Please also me mindful about coming to the surgery if you are unwell yourself! We may decided to take certain precautions during your visit, so it is important to make your veterinary team aware.

Keep up with the news…

The COVID-19 virus has caused a great deal or unrest and uncertainty, but do your best not to panic. Keep an eye on the news, both for trusted advice and for what’s happening in your area. This is the link to the official government website. There can also be a lot of misinformation around, so we would suggest relying on the BBC for your news sources . There are also regular updates on the British Veterinary Association (BVA) website too.

Meanwhile, stay as hygienic as possible and be sure to give your doctor a call if you’re feeling at risk. As ever, if you’re worried about your pet, don’t hesitate to give us a call.

Have your pets got isolation boredom?

Sun, 29 Mar 2020 09:12:11 GMT

Enrichment for Dogs and Cats

With people being severely limited in terms of being able to go outside at the moment, pet's routines are being disrupted across the county. Some animals are getting far less exercise than they are used to as well as possibly finding it unusual that their human owners are around the house more often than normal.

We thought we'd share some ideas about how to keep your dog or cat’s mind occupied while you’re self-isolating…

Games

Dig out your pet’s favourite toy and get playing! This will help to strengthen the bond between you. You can also involve food, using treats as rewards to keep your pet engaged. We do suggest that if you are giving more "treats" than normal, you reduce the amount of actual food they have at mealtimes. Otherwise we are predicting an obesity epidemic coming out the other of this! The Blue Cross have compiled a fun list here of games you can play.

Tricks

Got some time to kill? Make the most of it and teach your pet some tricks. There some good guides at myfamilypet.co.uk and loveyourdog.com .

Reward-based training is fun and will help to keep your dog or cat mentally stimulated. Again, make sure that you don't use any items that could cause your dog harm or injury!

Interactive toys

You don’t need to spend every waking moment with your pet. If they’re full of energy but you’re busy, try an interactive toy.

Kongs or puzzle feeders turn mealtimes into playtime for your dogs, and you can get puzzle toys for cats too. Here is a great list of things that you may be able to buy online for your cat.

You can also make toys! Got some extra cardboard lying around? Your cat will love to play with it. Egg boxes with Dreamies hidden inside can keep cats occupied for ages!

Search and Sniff

If your dog is a natural explorer, try tossing a handful of small treats across the lawn or your living room and watch them sniff their way around.

If you’re wary of overfeeding your dog, you can play search and sniff games with their toys too. Just spray their toys with something that smells strongly, such as sage or lavender. When your pet starts to associate the smell with the toy, you can hide it in different places and let them have fun searching for it.

You can also play "hide-and-seek", where you get your pet to wait in a different room, and then hide a serious of treats around the rest of the house. Encouraging them to use their brains and their noses can make a great game, especially with children involved too!

A comfy bed

Rest is important, so make sure your dog’s bed is extra comfy. Cats like high places so they can see what’s going on; be sure to put their scratching post by the window if you can. Or set up a resting place somewhere high up

...and some alone time!

Now that you're spending more time than usual with your pet, try to make an extra effort to give them some alone time - this will help prevent them suffering from separation anxiety when things go back to normal. If your pet is sleeping peacefully or playing on their own, leave them to it! Classical Music has been shown to have a soothing effect on some animals, and Classic FM have done their own pet program too!

If you have any other ideas - let us know below and we will add them as we go along!!

Keeping your pets safe during isolation

Thu, 26 Mar 2020 13:02:43 GMT

During these stressful times, we thought we try and share some tips on how to reduce the chance of you needing to come to the vet with an emergency.

With the increased isolation that pets and their owners are subjected to during these testing times, we have shared a few tips to try and help keeping you pet healthy over this period.

Foreign Bodies

We use the term "Foreign bodies" usually to describe items that animals ingest and then get stuck. This can often result in dangerous intestinal obstruction that usually results in emergency surgery. Common items that we see regularly include:

Socks, fabric, material.
Fruit stones such as peach/plum.
Baby's dummies.
Corn on the Cob.
Stones/pebbles.
Children's toys.

We suggest that, particularly if there are bored children stuck in the house, you keep an extra eye out for things that your dog may decided to chew up if they are bored.

We tend to see foreign-bodies more in younger dogs, more often male animals and certain breeds.... (Yes Labradors, we are talking about you...)

Traffic Accidents

Dogs are getting bored and cabin fever like everyone else and whilst it is tempting to let them off the lead to have a good long run about we suggest that you exercise caution and restraint. Only let your dog off well away from roads and when you are sure they are not going run away or dash off.

Bite Wounds

We have had to deal with several animals that have decided that having a good old scrap is a good way to blow off steam. During this period - we make sure that if you are likely to come into contact with other dogs, please put your dog on a lead to prevent any unwanted attention.

Stress/Boredom

Animals are likely to pick up on the changes that are occurring. We suggest the following things that can be done to try and make their (and our) lives a bit more interesting and less stressful.

Play games with your pet. Dogs can play "hide-and-seek" with their dog treats hidden around different rooms.
Consider teaching them some tricks. Giving paws etc.
Why don't you find out if they are left or right handed? There is a good article here showing you how to find out. https://www.inverse.com/article/49829-how-to-find-out-which-paw-your-pet-favors-more
Keep your cats occupied by encouraging them to chase paper, laser pointers etc
Consider using Pheromone treatments such as Adaptil™ in Dogs or Feliway™ in Cats.
Some people are suggesting keeping cats inside to keep them safe, - however we think this will create greater problems with stress related problems such as cystitis or over -grooming.

Toxic Ingestion

Try to make sure that anything that could be damaging to your pet, is kept right out of reach or locked away. The common things we see include:

Food - chocolate, grapes, raisins, sweeteners (Xylitol based)
Medication - make sure you keep prescription treatment well out of reach. If you are poorly then you need to keep your drugs away from our pets - particularly Ibuprofen in dogs and Paracetamol in cats.
Nicotine gum/vaping fluids can cause rapid and fatal signs in animals as it is absorbed incredibly quickly from the mouth.
Beware of any plants - lilies etc that could be chewed up.

Weight!

It is inevitable that animals are going to be exercising less, and that they are more likely to be being spoiled now that their owners are staying at home more. PLEASE make sure you reduce their calorie intake appropriately during this period of time

If you have any other ideas - let us know below and we will add them as we go along!!

Coronavirus - Are Pets at Risk?

Thu, 05 Mar 2020 13:49:24 GMT

Coronavirus continues to cause upset and unrest among the human population, but does it pose a risk to our pets too?

What is COVID-19?

COVID-19 is a type of virus called a Coronavirus. This particular strain is one of the viruses from the family Coronaviridae, of which there are many! We see other strains of Coronaviridae which can affect animals - there is one called FCoV which can cause an illness in cats called FIP, and there is a strain that can cause mild diarrhoea in dogs. These do not pose a risk to other species or humans.

Can the virus affect pets/animals?

In cats, there is a coronavirus called FCoV which can cause a nasty disease called FIP. In dogs, we see a coronavirus that can cause mild diarrhoea. However, these cause little concern about spreading from pet to human.

What about this dog in Hong Kong that was reported?

There has been reported of an "infected" dog in Hong Kong. This animal has tested positive for the virus, but is not reported to have been unwell. It is likely that this animal was just carrying the virus as a "contamination". However, in theory it may be possible for animals to spread the virus in the same way that contaminated door-handles, telephone receivers etc can spread illnesses!

Will this always be the case?

At the moment, it’s difficult to be sure. The coronavirus outbreak has sent the UK and the rest of the world into uncharted territory and it’s unclear what the next steps will be.

It’s important to be on the lookout and to contact a medical professional if you feel unwell. Likewise, give us a call if your pet seems unwell.

If I’m poorly, should I worry about spreading illness to my pet?

COVID-19 is not yet known to cause symptoms in pets, but similar viruses can be transmitted from humans to pets and vice versa.

To be on the safe side, stay as hygienic as possible. Wash your dog’s paws thoroughly after a walk and wash your hands regularly. At home, clean your pet’s sleeping/living area regularly and if you’re ill, keep physical contact to a minimum… and avoid letting your pet lick your face altogether. If you are unwell, we suggest minimizing contact of your pets with other people (just in case).

Concerns about exposure to the virus…

Keep up with the news…

The COVID-19 virus has caused a great deal or unrest and uncertainty, but do your best not to panic. Keep an eye on the news, both for trusted advice and for what’s happening in your area. This is the link to the official government website. There can also be a lot of misinformation around, so we would suggest relying on the BBC for your news sources .

Meanwhile, stay as hygienic as possible and be sure to give your doctor a call if you’re feeling at risk. As ever, if you’re worried about your pet, don’t hesitate to give us a call.

Brexit and Pet Travel

Sat, 01 Feb 2020 21:07:08 GMT

16/12/2020

Information about Pet Travel to the EU has been updated.

Diet Time

Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:42:52 GMT

Did you know that in the UK, 1 in 3 cats and 1 in 4 dogs are overweight? And as so many owners think their pet’s weight is fine, the problem continues to grow.

Feeding your pet a healthy, balanced diet is important to keeping them healthy, and making sure they live a long and happy life.

A balanced diet

Much like humans, our pets need the appropriate amounts of these ingredients in their diet:

    - Protein
    - Carbohydrates, including fibre
   - Fats
- Vitamins and minerals
- Water

The quantities needed will be different depending on how old your pet is, and what species they are. For an accurate assessment of the right food to feed your pet, come and have a chat with us – our team will be happy to help!

Why is fibre important?

You may have heard that fibre is nothing more than a bulking agent, but this IS NOT TRUE.

Fibre comes in 2 main forms: insoluble and soluble. Insoluble fibre usually passes through the gut, helping to maintain a feeling of fullness and keeping the bowel moving regularly. Soluble fibre is digested within the intestines and helps to produce other substances that nourish the gut cells and provide a fuel source for the gut bacteria.

Choosing a healthy diet for your pet: top tips

Always aim for a high-quality, ‘complete and balanced diet’. This should contain all the ingredients your pet needs.

Look for the following on the food’s packaging:

   - The country of manufacture
   - Minimal legal requirements
- Contact details for enquiries/complaints
   - A money-back guarantee
- Fixed formula
- Meets FEDIAF and local authority standards
- ‘Clinically proven’
- A clear source of protein (e.g. ‘Beef’ instead of ‘Animal Protein’)

Keeping an eye on your pet’s weight

It’s not just about what you feed your pet, it’s important for them to get the right quantity of food too. Most high-quality pet foods will provide portioning guidelines. It’s important to stick to this, and not to give your pet too many treats! (If you’re using treats to help train your pet, take a note of how many you’re using and alter their meal allowance accordingly.) It is often worth noting that the feeding guides on most pet-foods are excessively "generous" and so it often pays to feed slightly below the LOW end of the range!

Because you see them every day, it can be difficult to spot when your pet is putting on weight. We recommend weighing them regularly so you can keep track. There is further information about weight control (including some useful weight charts) on our website at www.biltonvets.co.uk/weight

If you’re unsure, or would like further advice on keeping your pet fit and healthy, contact us today!

Christmas Charity Hamper

Wed, 15 Jan 2020 15:13:18 GMT

Our Annual Christmas Charity Hamper raised £275 this year!

We would like to express our sincere thanks to everyone who bought a raffle ticket for this year's Charity Christmas Hamper. All the contents were gratefully donated by staff and client and this years was full of fabulous booty that could be enjoyed by humans and animals alike! The lucky winner has been notified.

We have raised a whopping £275 which shall be donated to our chosen charity this year - StreetVet . Along with the £655 that we raised from our summer Open Day - this brings us to £930 that we have been able to donate this year.

StreetVet is an amazing charity that is very close to our hearts. Volunteer vets and nurses will go out and about and help/advise/treat the pets belonging to the countries homeless population. They provide a great service and any money raised will always be used wisely to help these vital companions.

We would like to thank everyone that has supported us this year.

Farewell Kath!

Fri, 20 Dec 2019 15:40:51 GMT

We wish receptionist Kath a very happy retirement (but we are sad to see her go!)

On Thursday, we had to say a very sad farewell to one of our long serving members of staff. Kath Lloyd has been working as a receptionist in our practice for the past 11 years but has decided now is the right time to hang up her blue pen, put the phones over and turn the computer screens off for the last time.

"Aunty" Kath as she is fondly known by our staff has been an absolute treasure. Her calm and unflappable manner has been an essential part of our team and nothing calmed a situation down more than Kath walking in and just raising an eyebrow. Her "look" made any grumpy tantrums or panics just melt away and this then allowed a constructive thought process to occur and a better outcome.

She was a familiar face to our clients as well and seemed to have an uncanny knack of remembers names and faces so easily. A huge animal lover herself, she also enjoyed meeting our patients and sharing in the good times, and supporting people through the bad times.

Kath - we shall miss you hugely. However, you thoroughly deserve a rest now and we would all like to wish you a happy, peaceful and healthy retirement.

XXX

Christmas is coming...

Tue, 26 Nov 2019 14:06:01 GMT

Christmas is an exciting time of year for both us as owners and our pets with lots of food, presents and celebrations. However, these in turn can be quite the risk for our furry friends as many Christmas items can pose a threat to our pet’s health. There are many items we like to eat, drink and decorate our houses with around Christmas time, but there’s a few things to take extra care with when enjoying the festivities.

Who ate all the pies...?

Mince pies, Christmas cake and Christmas puddings

All of these contain lots of dried fruits like raisins and currents which are toxic to dogs. Unfortunately there is no known toxic dose for these foods and as little as ONE raisin can be fatal. If you notice that your dog has eaten any dried fruits then please ring us immediately, the sooner we treat, the better the prognosis! If you have a really sneaky dog who likes to steal food without your knowledge, you are not alone!! The most common signs to look out for will be vomiting, lethargy and lack of appetite and these are often seen within 24 hours of consumption.

Caught under the mistletoe:

Poinsettia plants and mistletoe

As pretty and as Christmassy as they are, please ensure they are out of reach of our lovely pets. Although rarely fatal, they are mildly toxic and can cause nasty irritations to our pets stomachs and intestines resulting in them becoming quite unwell with vomiting and diarrhoea.

All things merry and bright:

Christmas decorations

Unlike us, not all our pets like to admire decorations them at a distance. Many pets are very inquisitive and want to take a closer look at these new fancy decorations going up in the house, some even like to eat them! Baubles and other small tree ornaments, as well as presents from crackers and other small toys make the perfect sized objects for nosy pets to swallow, along with pieces of tinsel and string most commonly swallowed by cats. Objects like these commonly cause blockages in our pets stomachs and intestines. Most commonly this will result in vomiting, inappetence and generally looking quite dull and depressed.

Bang!

Fireworks

Although bonfire night might have passed, please keep your pets feeling safe! Fireworks displays are common around new years and this can be a very scary time for our pets. Please take a look at our advice section on some methods to keep your pets calm during this time.

'Tis the season to be jolly!

Prevention is best!! Make sure you think ahead and look at your festive arrangements through the eyes of your pet, so as avoid an unwanted trip to the vets!

Unless your pet is the life and soul of any party then they may find lots of visitors stressful, especially if they are not used to large numbers or small excited children. Give them a quiet room to escape to, with their own bed and toys. Leave the radio or telly on to drown out loud noises.

Take dogs for a walk before visitors are expected so they are ready for a nap and let them meet visitors only if they want to. If friends and family are visiting or staying with their own pets make sure they get on before leaving them alone and be prepared to provide separate areas for them to have.

Why don't you share some of your pet's festive activities with us on our Facebook Page ?

HAVE A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS FROM US ALL AT BILTON VETS

Are you pet's Microchip Details Correct?

Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:21:31 GMT

If your pet is found after going missing - will you be able to be contacted?

PLEASE make sure that if you have had your pet microchipped, you ensure that the database is updated to reflect any changes to your contact information - otherwise the chip is effectively USELESS . If you don’t know which database your pet is registered on then enter the number at www.checkachip.com . This is particularly important during this time of year when many pets run away as they are scared of the fireworks.

It is becoming more common now (as people pet's have been microchipped for longer) to have animals brought in whose database contact details are woefully incorrect. If this occurs then the finder will have no way of being to contact the owner and reunite them with their pet.

How do I know which database my pet's details are held on?

Annoyingly, there isn't just a single database where your details are held. There are many out there and often depend on the manufacturer of the original chip that was inserted. If your pet was chipped at our surgery, then the database will usually be either PetLog or PetTrac. If you are not sure which database you are using - then you can type your chip number into www.checkachip.co.uk and it will tell you who to contact.

How easy it it to change to details on the database?

Normally, you contact the relevant database, and after passing the security checks you pay a small fee and the details are then updated.

We regularly get people complaining to us about this charge. In actual fact, many companies offer a single payment "premium" service which allows you to change your details online and as often as necessary.

The two databases that we regularly use ( PetTrac Plus and PetLog Premium ) allow you to pay a one-off fee of approximately £17 and this allows you to update/edit/change your details as many times as you want over your pet's lifetime. This can often be done online too.

Things to consider...

Was the animal chipped before you obtained him/her (ie rescue or rehome). Have the details been updated since you have had them?
Have you moved house since your pet was chipped?
Have you upgraded or changed your mobile phone number?
Have you changed your email address?
Who are listed as alternative contact numbers? Have their numbers changed at all?
Is there anyone else who may be suitable to add as an emergency contact number?
Does the chip still work? (A very small number of chips can fail over their lifetime). Have you had it checked recently?

Helping Pets Cope with Fireworks

Thu, 17 Oct 2019 18:46:57 GMT

It’s nearly fireworks season!! Fireworks can be stressful to our pets and in turn to us humans but there are many ways to keep calm during this time.

1. Know the signs of fear:

Dogs and cats can show a variety of signs when they are feeling fearful, some have very obvious signs but others may suffer in silence.
What to look out for:

2. Keeping your dog calm

Make a Safe Space.

Many dogs like feeling safe and secure. A safe space is an area where the dog is familiar with and can go to at any point. Usually this is a crate or a table that is covered with a blanket and contains lots of the dog’s favourite things such as toys, blankets etc. Safe spaces should not just be made for fireworks season but should be used all year round – they are great for easing a dog whenever it is feeling a little nervous.

For firework season, it can really help to utilise lots of extra padding that absorbs the sounds - so get sofa cushions, blankets, old duvets etc and really pad the safe area out. It can also be better if the dog "chooses" the location and then you adapt it - if they want to hide under the bed, then this is the place you want to adapt.

Pheromone therapy.

Pheromones such as Feliway™, Adaptil™ or Pet Remedy™ can be used in conjunction with all the other techniques mentioned in this blog. They help to promote a feeling of safety for both dogs and cats and come in a variety of methods such as diffusers, sprays, collar and wipes. Thunder shirts are another good method to use as a conjunctive therapy as they act on the pressure points in your animals to help to soothe them.

Keep your dog away from the noises.

Try to keep your dog away from the fireworks. You can do this by walking them in the day, closing the curtains and putting on the TV or radio to mask the sound of the fireworks. Interestingly we find that some dogs can do better if you actually OPEN a window on the front and back of the house as this appears to give the sound some direction which can actually help the dog understand the noise better. It can also reduce some of the "pressure" wave effect that some of the booming fireworks can create.

Stay with your dog.

Leaving your dog may leave them feeling worried, so staying home with them can ease this.

Support your dog.

Your dog may come to you for comfort. Be sure to comfort your dog but try to not act too worried. If your dog senses that you are concerned then their worry will only increase. Try comforting your dog and then distract them with games using toys or treats.

Ensure your dog is microchipped (and the contact details are up to date) and wearing a dog tag.

This is so they can be easily found and reunited with you if they do escape or run off during the fireworks season. Every year we get animals brought in that have run away and we are not able to contact their owners as they are either not chipped, or the contact details are out of date.

3. Prevention is better than cure...

... so if you have a young puppy, be sure to try to habituate them to the sound of fireworks. You can do this by playing a sounds CD at a low volume until the puppy is comfortable hearing this and then gradually increase the sounds. Sounds CD’s are available at a variety of places such as the Dogs Trust: https://www.dogstrust.org.uk/help-advice/dog-behaviour-health/sound-therapy-for-pets

NEVER force your puppy to listen or watch the fireworks if they are stressed as this can make the problem worse! Sounds should be played little and often and only be increased in volume once the puppy is comfortable.

4. How to help your cats.

Create hiding places.

This is so your cat can feel comfortable and safe. Cats like to get up high so igloo beds or cardboard boxes can be placed in a safe manner on higher ground to help create this environment for your cat.

Never punish your cat for fearful behaviour.

Sometimes fear can be shown as aggression or other behaviour which we may not always like; during this time these behaviours should not be punished.

Keep your cats away from the fireworks.

Like with your dogs, try to keep your cats away from the fireworks. You can do this by changing the feeding time so that your cat starts to come in before dark in the lead up to fireworks season. Close all windows and flaps once the cats are in to ensure that they don’t run off if they are spooked. Play the radio or TV to help to mask the sound of the fireworks and provide them with support if they come to you.

Microchipping your cat

This is essential as if your cat does run away during fireworks season they can be easily reunited with you. As with dogs, we regularly get animals brought in that have run away and we are not able to contact their owners as they are either not chipped, or the contact details are out of date.

Provide an indoor litter tray.

This allows a place for the cats to toilet if they are usually an outdoor cat. Sometimes filling the tray with soil will help to imitate the cats’ usual toileting area better and so they are more likely to use the tray. Keep the tray away from any feeding areas and provide one tray per cat and one spare.

Finally remember to check any bonfires for wildlife!! Hedgehogs love to sleep in bonfires so please remember to check them before lighting them to help save our little wild friends too!!

Harvest Mites

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Fri, 04 Oct 2019 11:17:32 GMT

Autumn "Hitch-Hikers" that can be bothersome for your pet...

Harvest mites ( Neotrombicular autumnalis ) are a strange external parasite that can affect dogs and cats and usually only at this time of year. The name "Harvest Mite" has come about due to the short season that they seem to appear for is usually around, or just after the typical harvest time - ie late summer, early autumn. We typically see them between September and November.

How are they caught?

Harvest mites are usually "picked-up" from the environment. The larvae tend to crawl up blades of grass and await a passing host (dog or cat) and then they grip on and attach. They will feed over several days and then drop off to continue their development into adult mites. This means that it is only the nymph stages that can cause problems. It is also possible for them to spread from animal to animal in close proximity too.

What do they look like?

The six-legged Harvest mite nymphs are surprisingly large and can often just about be seen with the naked eye. They are also BRIGHT ORANGE which can also make them easy to spot. They tend to cluster in specific locations and this can often cause localised irritation.

In the little pocket on the ear flap (called Henry's Pocket) that is on the front edge of most dogs/cats ears.
In between the toes above the webbing.
Around the nipples (particularly cats)
In the fold of the elbows and the chest.

We can often be suspicious of Harvest Mites in animals that don't have any long-term history of itching that seem to start having problems at this time of year! We don't always have to find the mites on the animal to be suspicious!

Do they need treatment?

Not always! We do find that animals can react in a variety of ways. Sometimes we find the mites and the animals are showing NO SYMPTOMS at all, and in others they can be really struggling with an intense itch reaction to the mites. The majority of regular parasite treatments don't seem to be effective at treating/preventing Harvest Mites - however the common flea preparation Fipronil when applied as a Spray (NOT the spot-on) will often work very well.

Some animals may need extra treatment with anti-inflammatory steroids or anti-histamine drugs if they react badly to the mites. However, if you do nothing at all, they will eventually disappear again after a few weeks and the problems will disappear.

For further advice on this, or any other aspect of your pet's health, then please feel free to give us a ring to make an appointment!

Charity Open Day Success

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 01 Aug 2019 20:41:52 GMT

30th June 2019

As you may be aware, we had an Open Day this month to help raise money for the charity StreetVet ; a charity which helps provide support, treatment and education for homeless pet owners. Since StreetVet has been created, over 450 street dogs (and some cats and rabbits), have been vaccinated, microchipped, treated for fleas and worms, had pain relief prescribed and had surgeries performed.

Our open day was a massive success and we have managed to raise a massive £655 and this is all down to your generosity with your many donations.

Firstly, we would like to say a HUGE THANK YOU to everyone who has donated money and has supported our open day by coming or by sharing the word about it happening, as without your help we would not have been able to raise the tremendous amount that we have done for this much needed charity.

Another thank you goes to all who generously donated amazing prizes to our raffle. These included:

Emma Bearman , for the canine photography photoshoot worth £100!

Raise the Bars gym , for the free membership for a month.

The staff at Bilton Vets and G ranny’s Sandwich Shop , who all donated a variety of items to make a fantastic hamper.

La Casa Loco Restaurant , who gifted a £15 voucher

Olivia’s Coffee House , for the voucher for two to dine

Pro-K9 Massage , who donated a £30 voucher for a canine massage

Royal Canin , Kong and Fish4Dogs , who kindly donated a variety of dog tins, toys and food to make up the cat and dog hampers.

Joshua Hayward Dog Training , for the 45 minute one-to-one canine training session

Malt Kilm Farm shop , for their £15 voucher

We have drawn the raffle and contacted the winners already. Congratulations to all who won and we hope you and your furry friends enjoy your prizes!

The Day...

As the Open Day was to be held after a very busy morning surgery, we were dubious as to whether we would finish on time! Vet Tom came in extra early and performed some emergency vet duties when he wasn’t supposed to, and luckily with all the rest of the staff’s help, we managed to get the place spick and span in no time and set up for the day.

We had various stations for the day including,

A donation table
Face painting,
Teddy bear surgery,
Various old-fashioned games such as; mouse trap, pinball and win a bottle,
Popular practice tours
...and of course, a cake sale!

We also had a special celebrity guest appearance from “ Waffle the wonder dog ” who came to take photos with all of his fans. A huge thank you to Sue McCabe at A1 Animals and Waffle for making this happen, it was the icing on the cake and much appreciated by all – (some of the staff were more start struck than the children!)

All of this however would not have been possible without the dedication and willingness from the staff at Bilton. The final thank you is to those who took their time to come along on the day to make it run as smooth as possible.

The Charity...

All the proceeds from the open day, will go to the amazing charity, Street Vet .

StreetVet was born in 2016, inspired by the incredible bond between a homeless man and his dog! Victims of the UK homelessness epidemic often have scant support, except for, in a growing number of cases, the companionship of their pets. Some have had their pets since before losing their homes. Others had the responsibility of pet ownership thrust upon them. Irrespective, the bond between many homeless people and their dogs is profound, such that their pets’ well-being is a life-shaping priority. Now our ever increasing number of volunteers can help, by providing accessible fundamental vet care.

Welcome to our New Staff!

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Tue, 30 Jul 2019 21:38:41 GMT

17h July 2019

As many of you may have noticed, we have been super busy recently and so we are pleased to announce that we are expanding our veterinary team.

We are really lucky to have THREE additional Veterinary Surgeons start this summer and we would like to welcome Jess , Verity and Emma to our team. This will take us up to SEVEN full time vets.

You may have noticed that Galina isn't around at the moment - she is away on maternity leave and we have the lovely Jenny working with us as locum maternity cover until Galina returns.

We are also very lucky to see the return of Senior Nurse Bridget Facer , who brings our nursing team up to eleven.

By having extra members of staff, we hope to be able to continue to offer you convenient appointment times and be able to further the service that we are able to offer to you and your pets in our practice.

Be sure to check out our entire team on our staff pages here .

Jessica Wilby BVetMed MRCVS

Jess qualified in 2017 and has previously been working at a lovely practice in Market Harborough. As well as being a good "all-round" GP vet, she has special interests in Ophthalmology, Feline Medicine and "Small Furry" Medicine and Surgery.

Jess is an avid tennis player and golfer and enjoys spending time with her incredibly well trained pet rats. Be sure to say hello next time you are in!

Verity Browning BSc DVM MRCVS

Verity qualified in 2014 and has been previously based further north in Cheshire. Verity enjoys all aspects of veterinary medicine, however she does particularly like the medical challenges that this job entails, along with a passion for treating and rehabilitating injured wildlife.

Do come and introduce yourself if you bump into her whilst your are here!

Emma Sansby BVM BVS MRCVS

Emma qualified from Nottingham Vet School this year in 2019. Many of you will have seen Emma before as she was a regular visitor here as part of her training and we are delighted that she is now able to come and work with us full time. Emma is proving extremely popular with our clients and she is enjoying settling into her role as a GP vet with great success.

Bridget Facer Cert VN ECC, RVN

Bridget qualified as a Veterinary Nurse in 2004 whilst working at the Bilton Veterinary Centre. In 2006 she left to work at The Willows Specialist Veterinary Hospital in Solihull where she gained her additional qualifications in Emergency and Critical Care Nursing.

We are absolutely delighted that she has wanted to come back and work with us again! Bridget has particular interests in anaesthesia and patient monitoring.

Open Day to support StreetVet Charity

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 13 Jun 2019 18:49:51 GMT

July 20th - 2pm to 4pm

13th June 2019

If you are around on Saturday 20th July - then why not pop in to our open day at the practice? We are hoping to have a fun and informative day "behind the scenes" at our surgery.

There will be quizzes, games, activities for the children as well as competitions and prizes. We are also hoping to be able to give people a tour around our practice as well so you can see what takes place in the areas that most people don't know about!

Street Vet

All proceeds from the open day, will go to the amazing charity, Street Vet .

StreetVet was born in 2016, inspired by the incredible bond between a homeless man and his dog! Victims of the UK homelessness epidemic often have scant support, except for, in a growing number of cases, the companionship of their pets. Some have had their pets since before losing their homes. Others had the responsibility of pet ownership thrust upon them. Irrespective, the bond between many homeless people and their dogs is profound, such that their pets’ wellbeing is a life-shaping priority. Now our ever increasing number of volunteers can help, by providing accessible fundamental vet care.

So, if you are free - why don't you pop down for a fun afternoon and help us raise some money!

Whilst it would be lovely, we do ask that you leave your pets at home as we are expecting to be quite busy and don't think that we will be able to safely contain lots of animals as well! Thank you.

Full List of Available Prizes...

We have had had some GREAT prizes donated so far. Please remember, all the money raised goes to the StreetVet charity. Come along on the day and you could be in with a chance of winning...

- A £25 voucher for use on anything at Bilton Veterinary Centre .

- A Free Photoshoot from Emma Bearman Photography

- A free gym trial from Raise The Bars Rugby

- A £15 Voucher for La Casa Loco Restaurant

- A £15 Voucher for Malt Kiln Farm Shop

- A Voucher for a Canine Massage at Pro-K9 Massage

- A 45 minute one-to-one dog training session for puppies with Joshua Hayward (APDT qualfied trainer)

- A Voucher from Olivia's Coffee House

- Some scrummy bath bombs from Grannys Sandwich Shop http://grannyssandwichshop.co.uk/

- Some Dog Biscuit Tins, Blanket & Car Seat Cover from Royal Canin

- Two fantastic toys from KONG

- A selection of other great smaller prizes too!

A huge thank you to all the companies that have donated - we are really grateful.

Rabbit Awareness Week 2019

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 06 Jun 2019 17:53:15 GMT

Is your bunny protected against RVHD2?

The theme of this year’s Rabbit Awareness Week is RVHD2 – a variant of RVHD1 that can be fatal to our bunnies if they’re not vaccinated against it!

What is RVHD2?

Rabbit Viral Haemorrhagic Disease 2 is a new strain of RVHD that first appeared around 4 years ago in 2015. Just like RVHD1, it causes rabbits to suffer internal bleeding and is as good as symptomless in its early stages. When symptoms do occur, they’re easy to mistake for symptoms of other conditions.

How is it transmitted?

he RVHD2 virus is stubborn. In fact, it can survive in its environment for up to 6 months – especially in colder climates. This contradicts what many owners believe: that RVHD can only survive in/on an infected bunny and can therefore only be transmitted directly from rabbit to rabbit. Whilst this is true, the virus can enter your rabbit’s environment in all sorts of other ways:

From insect or bird droppings
From the wind
From the soles of shoes or other pets’ paws
From car tyres
From the droppings of other infected rabbits
From human clothes and hands

As you’ll see from this list, trying to prevent your rabbit coming into contact with RVHD2 is a nigh-on impossible task.

This map shows the case distribution across the UK. In reality, we think the actual number of cases are a lot higher as many rabbits that have died from the disease may not have been brought to the attention of the reporting vets.

How to tell if my rabbit is infected?

Even in it’s most advanced form, RVHD2 is more or less symptomless. Your rabbit may have a fever, appear lethargic or their personality may seem different but none of these symptoms are exclusive to Viral Haemorrhagic Disease so if you’re suspicious or concerned, always contact us as soon as you possibly can.

Treatment

Sadly, there’s no known cure for RVHD2. While there are some methods of supportive treatment out there, and while some rabbits do recover, this is very rare. In most cases, RVHD 1 or 2 is fatal to rabbits

What about prevention?

Now you’re talking!

Thankfully, a simple vaccination and annual booster can drastically lower your bunny’s chances of contracting RVHD 1 or 2. We’ll usually administer these separately – one vaccination against VHD1 and Myxomatosis and a second vaccination designed specifically to prevent RVHD2.

We’ll happily advise on a suitable course of vaccinations and boosters for your bunnies. As an owner, the most important thing you can do is make sure they make all of their appointments!

In the meantime, Happy Rabbit Awareness Week everyone! For further info, don’t hesitate to get in touch .

Looking back... "The Tiger who came for Tea (and an operation.)"

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Tue, 28 May 2019 15:13:56 GMT

We had a look through our archives recently and found these amazing set of photos...

28th May 2019

This photo shows (now retired vet) Mr Mark Furber operating on a Tiger that was from the old Southam Zoo! We can also see our current practice manager Linda Reece in the background when she was originally nursing here.

We understand that the Tiger had a hernia and needed surgery. We remember Mark telling us that really, there was nothing different about the surgery when compared to operating on a regular pet cat! It was the anaesthesia that was difficult...

We can't remember the exact date, but we think it must have been around 35 years ago.

Southam Zoo?Southam Zoo?

Southam Zoo was a small holding that ran from 1966 to 1985 just outside the town on the Daventry Road. You can read more about this on a good newspaper article that was written a few years ago. https://leamingtonobserver.co.uk/news/looking-back-in-time-at-southam-zoo-8610/

What about zoo work now?

Most zoo work now is a very specialised area and there are generally specific vets that work in this field. Vets can do further studies into Zoo Medicine and Surgery and are often attached to specific zoos.

Also regular vets with specialities in particular areas (such as orthopaedics, reproduction, ophthalmology etc) can often be brought in and work alongside the zoo specialists. Usually the most difficulties come about from the handling, sedation, anaesthesia (and the waking up) and the aftercare! Recently, eye vet Jim Carter worked with the zoo vets at Paignton Zoo to help remove a cataract in the Elephant!

Veterinary Nurse Awareness Month

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 09 May 2019 19:24:29 GMT

This month we are focusing our attention on our dedicated team of "greenies" that work tirelessly behind the scenes to care for your pets.

9th May 2019

Many people don't necessarily understand the roles that our team of Veterinary Nurses (VN's) play in the running of the practice and the care what we provide. The VN role goes far beyond " cuddling animals " that is often cited as their role!

Currently, we have ten VN's working with us in a variety of roles.

How to become a VN?

All VN's have to undergo a 2-3 year training course with regular assessment, projects and exams before they are allowed to progress to the further stages of the course. Whilst this course can be done on a full time basis, many nurses train "apprentice" style whilst working part-time within a veterinary practice. Only after they have passed all their exams are they allowed to be called a Registered Veterinary Nurse (RVN).

What does a VN do?

The VN's role is diverse and complex! Here is just a few of them...

Anaesthetist.
Radiologist.
Dietitian.
Weight management advice.
Scrub Nurse (help with operations).
Bereavement Councillor.
Pharmacy Assistant.
Intensive Care Nurse.
Animal Midwife.
Emergency Triage.
First Aid Provider.
Phlebotomist (taking blood samples).
Lab assistant.
Carry out minor procedures.
Surgical kit preparation.
In-patient care
"Thingy" finders (vets can NEVER find stuff even if it is right in front of them!)
Emotional support for the whole team.

For every animal that comes to the practice and sees a "single" vet for a consultation.will have required the involvement of at least two or three nurses in the background. If your pet has been hospitalised, then it is likely that over a day nearly the entire team will be involved in their care.

If you want to find out more about our team of nurses - then visit the staff section here!

New Lab Equipment Installed

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 25 Apr 2019 20:47:43 GMT

We are now able to offer a much wider range of tests "in-house".

25th April 2019

We have just made a significant investment into new lab equipment for our practice laboratory. Our previous machines were becoming very outdated and we were getting very limited by the tests that we are able to offer. One of the previous machines was over 30 years old!

We can now offer extended biochemistry tests that look at internal organs, detailed haematology analysis and improved urine processing.

Sick Animals

We can now process urgent samples for poorly animals that can provide vital information about internal organ function and health. This can save vital time as previously we could have to wait over 24hrs to receive results back from the external laboratories.

For the first time we can now offer a full haematology service as well which gives information about such problems as anaemias, white cell counts, inflammation, infection etc.

Disease Monitoring

We can also now provide a much more in-depth monitoring service for conditions such as Kidney disease, Liver disease, Diabetes, Thyroid Disease and Epilepsy amongst others. We will also shortly be able to offer Progesterone testing as well for breeders that are looking at the optimal time for mating. All with the benefit of results being turned around in under a few hours.

If you want to find out more about what we now able to offer, feel free to give us a ring and talk to any of the vets or nurses at the practice.

Riding for the Disabled Charity Donation

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Wed, 27 Feb 2019 11:43:54 GMT

Our Christmas Charity for 2018

The Riding for the Disabled Association

24th February 2019

Every year, our practice picks a charity that we support with a variety of fundraisers. Last Christmas it was a unanimous decision to support the Riding for the Disabled Association (RDA).

Sales of the raffle tickets for the Christmas Hamper raised a fantastic £221 pounds which has been passed on entirely to the RDA!

The horses and ponies at the RDA provide therapy, achievement and enjoyment to people with disabilities all over the UK.

Their network of 500 volunteer groups organise activities such as riding, carriage driving, vaulting, showjumping and Hippotherapy to over 25,000 people each year. They have been carrying out our life-changing activities for almost 50 years, and take great pride in the exceptional standard of their coaches and volunteers (18,000 in all).

They offer activities for all age groups and, wherever possible, to people with any disability – and you’re just as likely to find an RDA Group in an urban setting as a rural one.

They rely on voluntary help, donations and legacies to deliver all their services.

If you would like to find out more information about the RDA and how they help people, please visit their website at https://www.rda.org.uk . Thank you!

Think before you breed...?

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Wed, 27 Feb 2019 11:25:14 GMT

Are you tempted to have a litter from your bitch before neutering her? If so, here are a few things to bear in mind…

Having your very own litter of puppies is certainly an experience, and you may be tempted to do so before having your bitch neutered. Whilst this can be very rewarding if all goes well, a few things need careful consideration if you have never bred pups before. In some cases, it might not be a good idea at all.

To make sure you’re breeding to the highest standard, ensuring the health and wellbeing of your bitch and her pups, we ask that you please think about the following before making your decision.

Time & Effort

The decision to have a litter of pups is not one to make lightly. Before taking the idea further, carefully consider the amount of time, effort and expense it will take to breed from your bitch. Do you have the space for a pregnant bitch and her babies? Do you have the free time to provide for them? For roughly 2-3 months you will need to be available around the clock to look after them! Are you able to cover the cost of essential vaccinations and healthcare treatments? Remember that bitches can sometimes have up to ten or more pups in one litter!

Temperament

It is important to be sure that your bitch’s temperament is compatible with being a good mum, bearing in mind that she is likely to need at least a few visits to the vet for things like check-ups or ultrasound scans. If she has a nervous or flighty disposition, she will not find this easy. There is also a risk that an anxious bitch may reject or even attack her pups – leaving you to hold the babies! Also, it is possible that any nervous/aggressive dispositions from the parent(s) may be passed down to the puppies as well.

Pre-breeding health tests

Healthy dogs are more likely to have healthy pups. It’s very important to consider serious hereditary diseases that can be passed on to pups if their parents carry the affected genes. If you’re keen to breed from your bitch, we advise that you don’t go ahead without first checking with your vet. Do your own research too. Find out if your breed is prone to any particular health issue for which your bitch should be tested - the Kennel Club and breed society websites are a good starting point. Be especially aware of the multiple health issues that can affect short-faced breeds like French Bulldogs and Pugs.

Your vet can perform a general health check and will advise which pre-breeding health tests are available at your practice. Commonly performed tests include hip and elbow dysplasia testing, eye testing and heart testing. Gene tests for many breed-related problems are available and often may need just a simple cheek swab or blood sample. These can be very cost-effective. Some results can take several weeks to come back, so allow lots of time to complete health testing before your bitch comes into heat. When choosing a stud dog, it’s vital to ensure that he has been tested for any breed-related conditions.

Remember, many popular crossbreeds can suffer conditions inherited from the primary breed. For example, labradoodles may be at risk of hip and elbow problems, or cavachons may suffer from heart murmurs. Health testing is for ALL dogs, not just pedigree and KC registered dogs!

Veterinary Care

Once you’ve thought about health testing, consider also the need for veterinary care during the pregnancy and whelping. How will your bitch cope with this? What if she has difficulty whelping and needs an emergency caesarean? What if she suffers from complications after the pups are born? You should consider the potential costs, both financial and emotional, if things don’t go according to plan

Finding suitable homes

Pups should never be passed on to a new owner until they’re at least 8 weeks old and, by law, you need to have them microchipped before this. Sending off the right puppy to the right family is very important if all are to be happy in their ‘forever home’. This is a big responsibility - and could be quite a big job for you. Think about all of the advertising involved, as well as the potential struggle to find the right family for each pup. There is always the chance you might not be able to sell all of the pups, so could end up with more dogs at home than you’re able to care for.

The benefits of neutering

Early neutering greatly reduces the chances of some common, potentially life-threatening diseases.

Entire dogs and bitches are at much higher risk of certain cancers (ovarian, uterine and mammary in females, testicular in males), pyometra (infection of the uterus), prostate disease, unplanned litters, birthing problems, straying and related injuries, and sex-linked aggression.

If you’re ‘umming and ahhing’ about having that one litter, and your bitch is first and foremost a family pet, consider how the health benefits of early neutering weigh up against the potential risks of having a litter.

The Verdict?

Overall, breeding a litter of pups can be a rewarding experience - after all, what kind of place would the world be if nobody brought new puppies into it? However, breeding a litter brings with it significant risks and responsibilities in terms of health and welfare for your bitch and her pups, and commitment from you. If you have decided to have a litter, have done your research and are prepared for all of the risks, costs and work involved, that’s great! We recommend a really good book called "Book of the Bitch" by JM Evans and Kay White

If you’re yet to think it through, we advise that you do so carefully before making any spontaneous decisions.

If you’re unsure, come and have a chat with us! We’re always very happy to advise further.

Farewell and Good Luck Alix!

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 24 Jan 2019 17:53:41 GMT

24th January 2019

This month we all had to say a very sad goodbye to our lovely vet Alix. Alix joined us early last year and has been huge asset to the practice. As many of you will know, her passion lies in Veterinary Dentistry and she has just landed an amazing post at Eastcott Referrals as a resident training to be a dental specialist.

Our loss is definitely Eastcott's gain and we would all like to thank her for her unfailing enthusiasm, skill (and the cheese scones) and we all wish her the very best of luck for her future career.

Why does my dog eat poo?

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Tue, 15 Jan 2019 21:15:04 GMT

This is quite a common problem that we get asked about - particularly in young dogs. Coprophagia ( copro = poo, phagia = eating) is normal in some species. Rabbits cannot digest all their food in one go, and so the first set of faeces (called caecotrophs) are eaten almost straight away and the rabbit then has a second digestive crack at it in order to get the full nutritional benefit.

Cows don't eat their own poo, but will regurgitate their food to have another chew at it and process it repeatedly like this before it goes on to be digested.

Why does my dog eat sheep/cat/horse/cow/fox/badger poo...

It is REALLY common for dogs to want to eat the poo of other species. Often carnivore poo (eg cat or fox) is seen as the ultimate in "snack" for them, and herbivore poo (eg sheep or cow) can be just as tasty. The bottom line is, dogs like to eat this kind of poo because..... IT TASTES NICE! To the dog at least.

Carnivore faeces does contain some degree of undigested meat protein and it is this that is likely to be appealing to your dog. Evolutionary wise this scavenging probably evolved so as not to waste vital energy and nutrients. In reality, herbivore poo doesn't really contain anything useful to your dog...

Is it going to do any harm?

In all likelihood, your dog probably won't come to any harm by eating the poo of other species - other than it being quite unappealing for their owners! However there is some risk of problems.

There is an increased risk of parasite transmission between animals.
There is a risk of drug absorption. This is particularly the case if farm animals have been recently treated with medicines that could come out in the stools.
Faeces can contain bugs that can make our pets really poorly - such as Salmonella or Campylobacter.
Reverse risk - farm animals can pickup parasites from our pets too ! Dogs can carry a nasty tapeworm that can cause serious disease in sheep for example. Another reason to PICK UP POO when out on a walk!

Interestingly, there is some growing evidence that there could be some beneficial effect to the occasional poopy snack. Mammals' intestines (particularly the large bowel) need a certain bacterial population in their guts in order to work properly, breakdown certain foods and benefit from all the nutrients. This can become severely disrupted after certain illnesses or antibiotic treatment. This sudden "ghost town" in the intestine which is suddenly devoid of healthy bacteria can become a breeding ground for the more sinister variants - such as Clostridium Difficile (C-diff) in people. Faecal Bacteria Transplants really are becoming a thing and we expect that more will become of this in the future.

What about my dog eating its own poo or that of other dogs?

This is a really common behaviour in young dogs. Very occasionally it can be done due to a nutritional problem or a dietary imbalance, but this is actually REALLY RARE. Interestingly:

It is more prevalent in multidog households (2 or more other dogs).

Female dogs are more likely to be affected than male.

Dogs will usually only eat fresh stools (less than 48hrs old).

Dogs will tend to only eat properly formed stools and will avoid soft poo or diarrhoea.

Greedy dogs that have a habit of stealing food are more likely to eat their own poo.

For most occasions, puppies will do it because either they enjoy it or it is a vice that they do because they get owner attention for it.

A puppy may start eating poo because it is inquisitive. The owners are appalled by this and rush over and try to distract the puppy by either talking to it, offering it alternative food or a favourite toy. Quite often the puppy then works out that this is a great way to get more food or attention and so will keep doing it!

So, our top tips for trying to resolve this vice:

Make sure the garden is always scrupulously clean and all dog poo is picked up regularly.
As soon as the dog has done a poo, call them inside and give them a reward. Then quietly go back outside and pick up the poo avoiding any interaction with the dog.
If the dog eats the poo as they do it, then you may need to try and toilet your dog in a lead and then quietly and assertively move them away from the poo after they have done it. Once a good distance away, (and the dog hasn't managed to eat any), then you can reward them with a treat and some fuss.
If your dog does a poo in the house, never tell it off or frighten it as this can lead to faecal anxiety (see later on).

If this doesn't work then you can try the following

Sometimes, adding FRESH Pineapple Juice to the dog's food can make their faeces less appealing to eat. Pineapple contains a chemical called Bromelain which breaks down some of the undigested meat protein. It has to be fresh however, as Bromelain isn't found in processed or concentrated fruit.

You can use propitiatory products such as "De-Tur" (we so think this should be called De-Turd, but never mind). These are shop-bought tablets that you add to the food that work in a similar way. Our experience of these are not great to be honest.

You can try the " Booby-Trap " poo. This is where you leave a poo out deliberately, but add something like Pepper, Tobasco or Bitter Apple to it, hoping that this may cause a sensory aversion to eating the faeces.

Other reasons why dogs may eat their own poo.

Other than for attention, we also see dogs that eat their faeces for other reasons.

Isolation . Dogs that are kept for long periods alone, tend to indulge in this behaviour more.
Incorrect House Training . If puppies are anxious about their toileting habits (often due to overly harsh training), they may eat their faeces as a way of "hiding the evidence".
"Kennel Syndrome" where animals kept in confined areas with other dogs may eat their own poo too. We do see this is dogs that have come from rescue centres quite often.

When do you need to worry?

We really think you should be thinking about veterinary involvement if:

Your dog is not producing solid stools.
Your dog is struggling to maintain weight or put weight on.
There is any vomiting associated with eating stools.
Your dog is acting unwell in any other way.
You are seeing evidence of intestinal parasites.

We may need to intervene with some further tests, if we think that the coprophagia is a symptom of something more sinister.

If you are still struggling, then please come and have a chat to one of our vets or nurses who will be able to give your further advice!

We launch the new Puppy and Kitten Portals

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Fri, 11 Jan 2019 21:08:36 GMT

10th January 2019

We have recently added a big new section on our website. The Puppy and Kitten Portal is aimed at giving foundation advice for new pet owners. This has come about from an accumulation of experience from questions that we get asked by clients when they have just got their new family addition. We hope to expand this in the future but would love to hear your thoughts about it! The Puppy Pages are found here and the Kitten Pages are found here .

We wish you a MERRY CHRISTMAS

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Wed, 19 Dec 2018 13:50:07 GMT

It’s that time of year again, the trees go up, and the house is full of nice smells, people, food and presents. A wonderful time to be had by all, or so we hope... But do our pets enjoy Christmas as much as we do? Here is a quick guide to keep your pet happy, healthy and safe over the festive season.

Trees and Decorations

Nothing says Christmas more than a nicely decorated tree. It doesn’t matter if it’s real or fake, we nearly all have one in our house. Cats also love them, they can climb in them, play with the twinkly lights and knock the baubles around so unless you don’t mind picking your tree up off the floor every five minutes it is worth making sure it very secure either with weights on the bottom or by tying the top to something sturdy with some tinsel. Tuck ends of tinsel in, so they are not dangling temptingly in your pets’ way.

Cats & dogs have been known to try and eat strings of tinsel resulting in nasty intestinal blockages. Put chocolate decorations on the higher branches out of your dog’s reach. Also, invest in a circuit breaker for your lights so if your over inquisitive pet does chew them there is less chance of a shock.

Mistletoe and poinsettia plants are both highly toxic so keep these out of your pets reach.

Food & Drink

One of the joys of Christmas is all the food and drink, but unless you want to spend Boxing Day mopping the kitchen floor or visiting the vets it probably best not to change your pets normal diet.

Don’t forget a lot of the things we love like fruit cake and mince pies contain grapes in the form of raisins which are toxic to dogs.

Also beware of the thief that lurks in every dog, that box of chocolates, that big bar, that glass of sherry left on a low tablet are all very tempting but can result in a very poorly pooch. If you do want to treat your pets then use something you know they can tolerate. A couple of extra biscuits even if the same sort they have everyday won’t hurt for one day. After all it is Christmas.

If the worst happens and they get an upset tummy, don’t panic, as long as they are bright and happy in their selves it will normally settle in 24 hours with bland food fed for a couple of days. If your pet is particularly prone you can always keep some of the digestive pastes and supplements in the cupboard just in case.

Toys

Dogs especially are great fans of toys and they don’t mind if they belong to them or the children but even the cutest minion loses its appeal after passing through the digestive system of your dog. Small toys that are easily swallowed may get stuck needing emergency surgery, so ensure dogs can’t get at the small bits and pieces.

If you want to buy your pet a present, and most of us do, then go for a quality toy from a reputable manufacturer. Some cheap toys are badly made and can be dangerous.

Visitors

Fireworks

Will probably be going off over the Christmas and New Year period, and so if your pet is bothered by fireworks then you can get further information by visiting our advice page .

And finally....

All of the staff at the Bilton Veterinary Centre would like to wish you and your pets, a Happy, Healthy and Peaceful Christmas.

Riding for the Disabled Charity Hamper

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 22 Nov 2018 16:05:43 GMT

Our Christmas Charity for 2018

The Riding for the Disabled Association

22nd November 2018

Every year, our practice picks a charity that we support with a variety of fundraisers. This year it was a unanimous decision to support the Riding for the Disabled Association (RDA).

The horses and ponies at the RDA provide therapy, achievement and enjoyment to people with disabilities all over the UK.

They offer activities for all age groups and, wherever possible, to people with any disability – and you’re just as likely to find an RDA Group in an urban setting as a rural one.

They rely on voluntary help, donations and legacies to deliver all their services.

How are we helping?

All the staff have contributed items for our Christmas Hamper Raffle. Tickets are available from reception now and only cost £1. We shall be making the drawer slightly later this year (mid January) and one lucky winner will get our fabulous hamper. The hamper contains lovely goodies for both pets and owners alike!

ALL the proceeds from the raffle will be going to the RDA charity.

Where can you find out more?

If you would like to find out more information about the RDA and how they help people, please visit their website at https://www.rda.org.uk . Thank you!

Baby, its cold outside!

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Wed, 14 Nov 2018 16:41:04 GMT

Winter is approaching rapidly, and if it’s anything like last year, (and you believe the news) we can expect some very chilly conditions indeed again. Here is our guide to keeping your pets healthy in the cold.

Outdoor Pets

If you have outdoor rabbits or other hutch dwellers make sure their hutch is kept warm and snug. You could consider moving it to a garage or shed? It is important to keep the drafts out and insulation can be improved by covering it with old carpet or sacking. Make sure you provide plenty of bedding and ensure that water bowls and bottles are not frozen and food can be easily accessed. Consider putting a thermometer nearby so you can keep an eye on the temperature and bring indoors if too cold. (You can get very good cheap thermometers that feature a maximum/minimum display so you can see at a glance the ranges).

If you have an outdoor pond, some planks or other covering, over one end will keep it from freezing completely. Keep pets from running across the frozen surface as it may not support their weight. Extra care should be taken when out on walks to prevent dogs running across streams/canals/rivers etc.

Cats

Cats typically spend less time outside during the winter months, and so end up doing much less exercise. It is not a bad idea to slightly reduce their food intake as most cats we see tend to put weight on during this period!

Every year we see cases of cystitis in cats who are unwilling to go out in bad weather for toileting. Make sure you provide a litter tray so they don’t have to go out if they don't want to. For cats not used to using a litter tray, it can help if you fill their tray with "organic" litter such as dried leaves, twigs and/or soil. If your cat is the hardy sort who still goes out despite the weather, then just let them out during daylight hours.

Please ensure their microchip details are up to date, just in case they get lost or involved in an accident.

If you don’t have a cat flap consider an outdoor shelter for your cat to go to in case the weather worsens. There are lots of imaginative self-build shelters on the internet for inspiration. Reflective cat collars are also a good idea if you can persuade your cat to wear one, make sure they are the sort that will break if your cat gets caught anywhere.

Please also be really careful if you use any anti-freeze as this is highly appealing and highly toxic to cats. Make sure that any spills or leaks are dealt with as soon as possible.

Dogs

Dogs still need exercise even in the very worst weather. Older, thin, or very thin coated dogs may like a coat when the weather is bad. If your dog has very hairy feet then you can trim the hair between the pads to stop them developing balls of ice on their feet in the snow. If the roads have been gritted then wash your dogs’ feet after they have been out to get rid of grit and salt that can cause sores. Reflective collars and coats are a good idea for both dog and walker

Just like ourselves pets can suffer from arthritis and joint problems as they get older and the cold weather can seem to make worse. If you are worried about your pet then do see one of the vets as there are lots of things we can do to help from medication, food supplements, acupuncture and exercises/physiotherapy to aid your pets’ mobility.

and finally...

... don’t forget the visitors to the garden. Birds find it harder to find food and water in the winter especially in the snow. A couple of inexpensive bird feeders can make all the difference and encourage them into the garden. Make sure you have some unfrozen water available. If you are luckily enough to have hedgehogs visit then they will also enjoy a bit of extra food and water too! There is more information here https://www.discoverwildlife.com/how-to/wildlife-gardening/5-ways-you-can-help-wildlife-this-winter/

Welcome to our new vet, Esme Howells

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Mon, 08 Oct 2018 15:30:48 GMT

Esme Howells BVSc MRCVS

1st October 2018

We are really excited to welcome our newest member of the Bilton Vets Team. Esme qualified from Liverpool University in 2016 and has worked in small animal practice ever since.

Whilst enjoying all aspects of general practice, she has a particular interest in the use of Western Acupuncture, and its use for treating animals with a wide range of chronic conditions such as arthritis.

Esme's acupuncture clinics are now available and so if you feel your pet would benefit from seeing her, please give her a ring to discuss things further!

We say a sad farewell to Claire and Rose

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Mon, 08 Oct 2018 15:12:27 GMT

12th June 2018

In June this year, we are very sad to say goodbye to two of our longest serving and well respected members of staff.

Both Claire Gardner and Rose Bolan have announced their retirement from practice. Claire has worked at the practice since 1982 and Rose joined us in 1996. Countless numbers of animals (and their owners!) have benefited from their skill, compassion, dedication and wisdom.

On behalf of all the staff (past and present) and I am sure many of our clients, we would like to wish them both the very best wishes for their future!

The practice stewardship now passes to Tom Waterworth and Ian Taylor. Along with their fabulous team of vets, nurses and support staff, they hope to continue to grow and develop the practice whilst providing the professional and caring service that has always been the backbone to a great practice.

Brachycephalic airway obstruction syndrome (BOAS)

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Tue, 25 Sep 2018 17:31:20 GMT

Is your flat-faced dog struggling to breathe?

What is BOAS and why does it cause a problem?

BOAS sounds very complex but hopefully by the end of this blog you should have a good idea what it is, which dogs it affects and what to do if your dog is struggling with it. BOAS is very common with signs being seen in 46% of French bulldogs and 60% of pugs with many other flat faced breeds of both cats and dogs affected too.

Brachycephalic means ‘short snout’ and this refers to any flat faced breeds such as pugs, bulldogs and boxers. BOAS can affect any brachycephalic animal (including Persian cats and some breeds of rabbit, for example) but we mainly see this in dogs. These animals have a shorter snout but the same amount of tissue in their nose and mouth as a longer nosed dog.

Flat faced breeds have an especially long soft palate. The soft palate normally separates the nose from the mouth and stops food going up into the nose, but in BOAS, this long soft palate is sucked into the airway and blocks it every time the dog breathes. In most cases, they also have to breathe through their mouth because their nostrils are so small they cannot breathe through them normally. These are all things they are born with, but you may not see the noisy breathing straight away.

This all means that their airway is much smaller than a dog with a longer nose and it takes more effort to breathe. This will only get worse with time. When there is extra pressure in the airway the soft palate gets thicker, the tonsils swell and some sacs in the voice box, called laryngeal saccules, pop out and further block the airway.

Dogs affected by BOAS will often have noisy breathing (this is usually the long soft palate getting sucked down into the airway that you can hear) that often sounds like snoring. This is almost always worse in dogs that are obese, too hot, excited or exercising. They can also struggle to catch their breath, get very tired quickly on walks and can even collapse (usually if hot or exercising). These dogs also sometimes regurgitate food and water because of the extra pressure in the chest. Sleeping can often be affected too, as afflicted dogs often cannot breathe with their mouths closed and so often continually wake up struggling for air.

Breed to Breathe is a newly started campaign to help vets, owners, breeders and the public work together to breed healthier animals without these breathing problems. However, there are still thousands of flat faced breeds in the UK. These all have a high risk of BOAS, so what can we do about it now?

If you have noticed your dog has noisy breathing and you are concerned that they are struggling to breathe then bring them in to us. We can then work out what treatment is most appropriate for your dog.

What can be done to help affected dogs?

There is some surgery that can be done to open up the airway and help them breathe easier. Depending on the needs of the dog the surgery can consist of any of the following:

Opening up the nostrils - a little piece is taken out of the middle and then we stitch it back together to make a rounded, more normal nostril shape.
Shortening the soft palate - we just cut the back of the soft palate back to where it should be so it no longer blocks the airway.
Removing the laryngeal saccules or the tonsils if they are enlarged and blocking the airway.

Over the weeks following the surgery your dog should be able to exercise and breathe easier (and be much less noisy with their breathing!).

Unfortunately our flat faced dogs are born with this excess tissue in the airway so BOAS is a big risk. If you already have a flat faced dog there are some things you can do to make breathing the easiest it can be:

Keep your dog at an ideal weight, if they are overweight the fat will make the airway even smaller than it already is
Keep them cool - especially in hot weather!
Exercise - ideally at an intensity that they can cope with regularly

What do I do if I really want to get a "flat-faced" dog?

If you’re looking at getting one of these flat faced dogs, and you would not consider any other type of dog, then going to a breeder that is working with the Breed to Breathe campaign , or getting a cross breed, is the best way forward.

The most important step before getting a flat faced dog (or any animal for that matter) is to educate yourself in the problems that the breed are likely to face. So many owners of flat faced dogs are surprised when their dog develops a common breed problem and the costs associated with it.

If you are still keen to get a brachycephalic dog, we suggest looking at the parents and look out for:

Size of the nostril openings - are they wide an open or narrowed/closed?
The presence of any "snorting" noises when breathing?
Does the dog have to breathe with their mouth open, even at rest?
Is the nose excessively short?
What degree of skin folds are there around the nose/muzzle?

You are very welcome to come by the practice for advice before buying any animal so that you can provide them with the best life possible.

Why is Rat Bait toxic?

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Thu, 16 Aug 2018 19:29:49 GMT

There are a few different types of rat bait (rodenticide) used. The most common group used in the UK are anticoagulant rat baits, which we will focus on here. They are potentially dangerous to all mammals and birds, and are a common cause of poisoning in pets and wildlife. Within this group there are different types, and while all carry a risk, some are more dangerous than others.

How would my pet become poisoned?

Rat bait is often cereal based in order to make it tasty for the rodent. This also makes it appealing to a dog. Traditionally, people often lay rat bait in the open as well as inside buildings and often uncovered. Dogs that are off the lead, especially on farm land and around outbuildings, can get hold of the toxin this way. It is usually in blue pellets but there are also solid bait blocks available.

Cats are generally more discerning about what they eat, and rarely eat the bait. There is a theoretical risk posed by a cat eating mice that have been poisoned, but in reality we rarely see this happen. Rodents would probably have to be the main part of the cat’s diet in order to cause toxicity this way.

What is an anticoagulant?

Anticoagulant rat baits work by inhibiting vitamin K in its victim. Vitamin K is crucial in producing enzymes that are needed for a cascade of events ending in the formation of a clot, and so preventing life threatening blood loss.

There is often a lag period before any signs occur while the stores of these enzymes are used up. Once this happens the clotting cascade is halted and the next time a clot is needed, it cannot be produced. Bleeding, when it occurs, can then not be controlled or prevented by this normally protective mechanism.

Are all anticoagulant rat baits toxic?

All anticoagulant poisons are toxic, however some types are much worse than others.

The “first-generation” anticoagulants, such as warfarin, require multiple feedings to result in toxicity.

The “intermediate” anticoagulants such as diphacinone require fewer feedings than “first-generation” chemicals, and thus are more toxic to non target species like dogs.

The “second-generation” anticoagulants (brodifacoum, bromadiolone, difethialone) are highly toxic to non-target species such as dogs, cats, livestock, or wildlife, after just a single feeding.

Why are these toxins allowed to be sold?

The demand for high quality food and concern for the health and safety of farm employees and livestock enforce the need for proper control of rodents.

A few years ago, the Campaign for Responsible Rodenticide Use (CRRU) was set up in response to concerns from government agencies, such as the Health and Safety Executive (HSE), about exposure of these toxins to wildlife, non-target animals and even people. A stewardship program was set up to improve best practice and to teach other ways to reduce rodent populations before resorting to rodenticides. From 2018 new regulations mean that amateurs are restricted on bait purchase. Farmers and growers will need a licence to buy the more lethal professional rodenticides, proving they are part of the scheme or have carried out training to use them. Securing the bait within bait boxes will help target the rodents, and not other animals or wildlife. Producers will not be allowed to use pulse baiting or permanent baiting. The concentrations of the strongest baits have been legally reduced.

These new regulations should not only help to reduce exposure to wildlife, but will also reduce the chances of your pet becoming exposed.

How will I know if my pet has been exposed?

In many cases ingestion has been witnessed, enabling swift action. However if this is not the case, signs are often delayed by several days, when the animal runs out of clotting enzymes. Signs depend where bleeding first occurs, so can be very variable. Nose bleeds, bloody faeces, small burst blood vessels in the skin, eyes, or gums, for example.

How is it diagnosed?

If ingestion was not witnessed, other causes of spontaneous bleeding must be ruled out such as lungworm, or other rare congenital clotting disorders. Clotting tests can be carried out on your pet’s blood, which help us confirm rat bait exposure. We treat this condition with Vitamin K, and their response to treatment is often used for confirmation.

What do I do if I think my pet has ingested some bait?

If ingestion was witnessed your pet will need to be seen immediately by our vets. It is important that you bring the packaging, or any information you have on the type of rat bait it was. The volume that was ingested, and the size of your pet will be important for making treatment decisions.

Often our vets will make your pet vomit to bring up any undigested bait. Given the active ingredient is absorbed very quickly, it may already be in their bloodstream. Giving activated charcoal may soak more toxin up, allowing it to pass through the gut and out in the faeces.

We use vitamin K orally, for varying lengths of time, depending on which toxin was ingested. If the toxin is unknown then we would give at least 3-4 weeks of vitamin K. Occasionally we may discuss blood transfusions if your pet is very anaemic. Despite treatment, in rare cases some dogs will not survive a large dose. We may perform tests to confirm clotting is sufficient before signing off treatment.

Rat bait is toxic through different mechanisms. Most commonly through its ability to stop your pet's blood clotting, which can in rare cases, or if left untreated, be lethal. New regulations and better control of these potentially harmful substances could significantly reduce the number of cases we see.

If you think your dog has been exposed to rat bait, call us right away before symptoms appear.

Lungworm - Myth or Reality

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Tue, 17 Jul 2018 13:09:52 GMT

Lungworm was first seen in the UK in 1975. Back then, recorded numbers were low. However today it is now what we call an 'emerging' disease, meaning it is gradually becoming more common, and poses a real risk to our pet dogs. In this blog, we will learn a little more about this small potentially deadly parasite and how and why over recent years a theoretical risk has become very real.

What is lungworm?

Lungworm is a type of parasitic worm (proper name Angiostrongylus vasorum ) which affects dogs and also foxes, who are often implicated in spreading the disease. Once dogs are infected, adult lungworms live in the heart and the major blood vessels supplying the lungs, where they often cause a host of potentially serious problems.

How does my dog get it?

Unlike many diseases, lungworm is not actually passed directly from dog to dog. An infected dog/fox passes lungworm larvae in its poo, which slugs or snails ingest. There, the parasite grows and develops, and it is from eating these slugs or snails that your dog can get infected. When your dog rummages through undergrowth, drinks from puddles, eats grass, or generally sniffs around outside, they can end up eating these slugs or snails either accidentally, or on purpose. Contact with the slime trail in outdoor food and water bowls, even over toys left out in the garden, can be enough to cause infection too. Young dogs are more susceptible to infection because they tend to explore, eat, and chew when outdoors. Snails are most active in spring and autumn, but remember not all snails carry the parasite. The more infected slugs and snails eaten, the more likely disease is then rapidly spread within dog and fox communities.

Why is lungworm important?

If your dog is affected by lungworm, the symptoms can be serious, even fatal. Signs can be vague, such as reluctance to exercise, but can also include coughing, breathing problems, and abnormal bleeding.

Chest x-rays, although important, can’t differentiate lungworm from other causes of chest and heart problems. We can examine a sample of the dog’s poo under the microscope to look for larvae, although this isn’t one hundred percent reliable, as they are not always present in every sample. Blood tests can also be done to detect active infection.

How widespread is lungworm?

A study in 2015, suggested 18.3% of UK foxes were infected with lungworm – significantly higher than the 7.3% found in a 2008 study. The south-east is reported to have the highest rates, with 50% of foxes found to be infected with the parasite (more than double the previous figure). Even in the north of England and Scotland 7.4% of foxes were found to be infected, despite not being found in this region in the earlier study. The parasite was found in 6.7% of slugs and snails tested in the Glasgow area, 11% in a public park in Glasgow where the first confirmed case of lungworm was reported in 2009. Positive specimens were also found in parts of the area in which lungworm was expected to be absent.

How many cases have there been in the UK?

An interactive lungworm distribution map ( www.lungworm.co.uk/lungworm-map ) was launched by the drug company Bayer in March 2015, to monitor lungworm diagnosis around the UK, check historical data and share new cases of lungworm. Hundreds of cases have been reported, and key lungworm risk areas identified. Go online to check your area. Vets across the country are being asked to record every confirmed case, but there is no obligation to report it so the data is in no way complete. In addition, many suspected cases that are treated and get better without ever being diagnosed, will not appear on the map. There is a concern that the cases we diagnose may only be the tip of the iceberg.

Why does lungworm seem to be on the increase?

It was once unclear if the parasite was genuinely extending its range across the UK or, rather, the apparent spread was due to an increased awareness among veterinary professionals and the public.

The distribution is actually is due to many factors such as environmental changes, an increased abundance of snails and slugs, and better awareness of the signs associated with the presence of the parasite.

This parasite’s geographical range has expanded faster than our knowledge. Continued study will aid our understanding.

What can I do to prevent it?

With regular use of preventative products, prevention is easy to achieve. Not all worming products are effective against this particular parasite so speak to one of our vets to get the right one for your dog. Regular removal of faeces, removing toys and water bowls from the garden during the night and limiting access to areas where slugs and snails may be present, can help.

Increasing awareness of lungworm, both by vets and owners, is improving our ability to diagnose and confirm its existence. Evidence also suggests the mollusc host, and amount of parasites in the environment are increasing, meaning we are likely to see more of this condition. The key to fighting back is in recognising the risk factors, and regular use of preventative anti-parasite treatments.

This parasite is certainly no myth and once it infects your dog it can be very difficult to treat, and can be fatal. Please speak to one of our vets for more information.

Does Microchipping really make a difference?

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Tue, 03 Jul 2018 14:26:36 GMT

We think it’s really important to microchip your pets… however, it’s a big needle and people sometimes worry about having it done. In this blog, we’re going to look at microchipping, what it is, how it works, and why it’s so important.

What is a pet microchip?

These are tiny little electronic devices (about the size of a small grain of rice) encased in biocompatible (i.e. pet-safe!) glass. Inside, it doesn’t contain a battery or a power source, just a passive radio-frequency transponder.

How do you use it?

The microchips are inserted under the skin, between the shoulder blades. To do so, we use a hypodermic needle very similar to that used for your pet’s routine vaccinations, just a little larger. Once under the skin, the chip stays there for life, doing its job! After the chip is inserted, it’s really important that you make sure your details on the microchip provider’s database are kept up to date. It’s these details that will allow us - or any vet - to trace you and reunite you if your pet goes missing.

How does it work?

This is the really elegant part. The chip doesn’t transmit a signal at all - it sits there doing nothing, being harmless until it receives a very weak radio signal from a scanner. This signal is far too weak to cause any harm (or indeed any measurable effect - it’s much, much weaker than a mobile phone signal, for example). The transponder then reflects back the radio-waves from the scanner, but in the process it modifies the signal slightly. The result is that the chip “echo” encodes a unique identification number, which the scanner then picks up. The vet, nurse or tech reading the scanner can then look up that unique ID number on the database (that, of course, you’ve been updating whenever you move or change your phone number). Once they find who the pet belongs to, they can call you to be reunited.

Why do we recommend it?

Because, sadly, pets do not always stay neatly where we want them!

The most common reason for pet loss is fear - for example, following a loud fireworks display, or a violent storm. A frightened dog or cat will often just run in a blind panic, and then find themselves in an area where they don’t know how to get home.

The second common reason is distraction, especially if you’ve taken them for a walk or a visit somewhere new and exciting. Everything’s so interesting they wander off - and before they know it, they can’t find you and you can’t find them.

Finally, there is the possibility of pet theft. It is uncommon, but it does happen occasionally. If a pet has a microchip that we can scan, we can determine who they really are, and you can take legal action to have them returned to you, their rightful owner.

What are the risks?

No medical procedure is without risks. In the case of microchipping, the chip is inserted with a large needle that may sting a little when inserted; in very small puppies or kittens, we may recommend waiting until they’re a bit bigger before implantation. Occasionally, there is a small amount of blood, especially on white-furred animals. This is minimised by our careful technique, but it can happen occasionally.

In rare cases, the chip may stop working over time - which is why we always like to check it every time you come in! - and very, very occasionally it may “migrate” or wander somewhere else in the body. However, with modern microchips, it is very unusual for the chip to move more than a few inches under the skin.

There have been one or two cases of poorly-trained people inserting microchips in the wrong place, and causing harm - this is why we would never allow anyone except a trained vet or vet nurse to implant a microchip. They know exactly what they’re doing, and the risk is virtually zero!

Is it worth it?

Definitely. This microchip is the only way that a vet somewhere else in the area will be able to identify who the stray cat or dog belongs to. It’s by far the best guarantee that even if your pet does wander off, they can be returned to you.

If you want to keep your pets safe and have them returned if they should escape or wander off, make an appointment to have them microchipped by one of our veterinary healthcare professionals!

Do I need to clean my dog's ears?

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Wed, 13 Jun 2018 00:00:00 GMT

A common and very simple question without a simple answer. All cases are as individual as the treatment they need. We will talk about how the ears of a ‘normal’ dog work, highlight why problems could occur which lead to a need for cleaning, and detail signs to watch for.

If your dogs ears are functioning normally you should not need to do anything. Just like the old saying goes: ‘if it aint broke don’t fix it.’

Cleaning your dog's ears with an inappropriate cleaner or technique could cause problems where there were none. For a demonstration on the best way to clean ears without causing damage, and what to use, make an appointment to see one of our vets or nurses.

How do I know if my dog has a problem with his ears?

If your dog has any one of the signs below they may have an ear problem:

- Shaking his head more frequently than normal

- Holding his head to one side

- Scratching at his ear(s) or pain when touching the ears

- Discharge from the ear(s)

- Skin of the ear flap appearing red and sore

- The ear flap becoming swollen or enlarged

It is important that your dog sees a vet at this stage. Owners may self-treat using cleaners, but until the ear is examined, the vet will not know if a cleaner is the correct treatment, and if so, what sort of cleaner would be best. Many ear problems require specialist treatment from the outset.

What happens in a normal dog’s ear?

Dogs’ ear canals are lined by skin. Just like on the body, new skin cells grow and are continually shed. There is potential for these cells, alongside wax and hair, to block the ear. In the ear there is a clever mechanism causing skin cells to migrate upwards, carrying debris, dead cells, and secretions up and out, like an escalator, preventing blockages.

Infection with either yeast or bacteria does not occur in a normal ear. Studies suggest that the environment inside the ear canals of most dogs is sterile.

Otitis externa (inflammation of the ear canal) can disrupt the normal clearing function and may lead to infection. After an infection the ear canal may be permanently changed and narrowed meaning relapses are more likely. There are many factors involved in why your dog may be predisposed to inflammation and infections.

Why might my dog be predisposed to ear disease?

Age. In older dogs the ear may not function as well and wax can build up into large plugs causing discomfort/head shaking, secondary infection and damage. Our vets can can look down your dog's ears with an otoscope to see if cleaning may be needed.

Swimming can cause tissues down the canal to soften and be more susceptible to infection. Using water based cleaners can have the same effect. Do not allow your dog to swim in dirty water. When bathing, use a cotton wool pack to prevent water getting in the ears.

Underlying conditions. The most common trigger for otitis externa is allergic skin disease (atopic dermatitis or atopy) . It is estimated that 75% cases of otitis are caused by atopic dermatitis. Certain breeds more likely to suffer with atopy: German shepherds, labradors, golden retrievers, boxers, spaniels (especially cocker spaniels) and westies.

Autoimmune disorders, foreign bodies (like grass seeds), hormonal conditions such as hypothyroidism or cushing's, and parasitic ear disease could also be primary causes for otitis.

Hot or humid weather can favour bacterial growth.

Breeds of dog and individual dogs have different shaped ears and canals.

-Poodles can suffer with hairy ears, causing humidity and a build up of wax/debris

-Bloodhounds have floppy ears so lack ventilation within the canals

-Shar-peis often have narrow ear canals, causing high humidity and poor ventilation

-Spaniels often have hairy concave canals, leading to a mix of these issues

-Cocker spaniels can have increased glandular tissue producing too much wax

How do I know what type of cleaner to use?

It depends on any previous disease and the dog’s lifestyle. Assessment of the ear canal is crucial as the wrong type of cleaner can harm your pet’s ears. Our vets can point you in the right direction. If your dog is has, or has had, an infection they may advise a cleaner, initially alongside other medication then alone in the long term.

There are:

Acidic or alcohol based cleaners that can act as an antibacterial.
Ceruminolytic cleaners containing de-waxing agents for breeds that commonly produce large amounts of thick wax, e.g. spaniels.
Gentle lubricants, which may benefit dogs with age related build up.
In sensitive, ulcerated ears, gentle water-based flushes such as those containing chlorhexidine and tris-EDTA.
Astringent cleaners can be useful to use after swimming as they will dry the canal, making the ears less prone to opportunistic infections.
Acidic, astringent and alcohol-based cleaners should be used with care in allergic ears.

Is there anything else I can do to try and prevent ear problems?

If you have a puppy, getting them used to handling their ears may help them get used to the idea if problems necessitate ear cleaning/medicating.
Clipping of hair around the canals of certain breeds may improve ventilation, especially in the warmer months.
Plucking of hair from canals can help ventilation and improve humidity. If it helps, it can be done on a regular basis. However if it is not causing a problem this should not be routinely done as it can cause pain and an inflammatory reaction.

In summary, not all dogs need to have ear cleaning routinely. When they do, choosing the right cleaner is the key in order to avoid harm in trying to do good. If you think your dog may be at risk from ear disease or has any of the signs listed, book an appointment with us. Remember your dog's ears are as unique as they are and the advice will be equally as unique!

New VHD vaccine available

website@sitemodify.com (Website Editor) — Mon, 02 Apr 2018 00:00:00 GMT

What is VHD2?

Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD), (which is also sometimes called Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease Virus (RHDV)) is a virus that has been around for a long time and can affect wild and pet rabbits. Previously there has only been one strain (called VHD1) and as vets, we have been able to vaccinate against this for many years. However recently, a new different strain has emerged called VHD2. Whilst it causes similar symptoms, the existing VHD1 vaccine doesn't protect again the new VHD2 strain.

Why doesn't the existing vaccine work?

The VHD2 virus is different enough on a microscopic level not to be recognised by antibodies previously created by vaccination to the VHD1 strain - think of it a bit like the "Flu" virus in people, the symptoms are the same, but each year the vaccine has be tailored to the relevant strain.

How much of a risk is it?

Vets originally thought that the risk of this was quite low, however recent evidence is showing that there are increasing cases being reported across the UK. Also these are only the cases that have been CONFIRMED, it is unknown how many rabbits have died and the death has not been investigated. (See the Diagram below )

How is VHD spread?

Both strains of VHD can spread very easily and also can persist in the environment for long periods of time (up to 200 days!) Spread can be via contact with infected rabbits (wild or pet), their urine/faeces as well as and on clothing, shoes, food bowls etc. It is not known if insects are able to spread it but it is suspected.

What can be done to prevent it?

We now have access to an imported vaccine called Filavac, that protects again VHD2. This doesn't replace the current vaccine that we use which is a duel vaccine that protects again VHD1 and Myxomatosis . Both vaccines can't be given together unfortunately, and so have to be separated by a 2 weeks gap.

Which rabbits need vaccinating?

In theory ALL rabbits are at risk, however rabbits that:
Are not indoor rabbits or spend time outside
Are living in more rural areas with possible contact with wild rabbit populations.
Are being handled by people in contact with other rabbits
are more at risk.

What do you need to do next?

If you would like to book your rabbit in for the vaccine, then please contact us FIRST to check we enough enough stock in. then just make an appointment as normal with reception. The current cost of the injections is £30.98 per rabbit.

Call on 01788 812650 for more information.

We are expecting that in the foreseeable future the VHD2 will be incorporated into the standard VHD1 and Myxo vaccine and so ultimately only a single injection will be required. But until that happens, two separate doses are required.

bilton

Muzzle training your dog

How to get your dog used to wearing a muzzle

What is a muzzle for?

It is ok just to put the muzzle on at the vets?

How can we utilise the muzzle better and try to improve these dog's experiences?

Muzzle Training

Cat Microchipping

Microchipping law comes into effect on 10th JUNE 2024

Who can insert a microchip?

Are all microchips the same?

How are the microchips inserted?

What happens if my cat won't tolerate the microchip needle?

How much does it cost?

How can I book an appointment?

Understanding the ban on American Bully XL dogs in the UK

What's the situation?

Does this mean that if I own an American Bully XL it will have to be put to sleep?

Is it illegal to own an American Bully XL?

What is an American Bully XL?

How do I know if my dog is classed as an American Bully XL?

What should I do if I own an XL Bully?

What are the rules for exempt dogs?

What about other banned breeds?

Are other large breeds like the Cane Corso and Presa Canaria included in the ban?

Additional Resources

Too Hot to Handle? How to manage heat stroke

What is Heat Stroke? ﻿

What causes Heat Stroke?

What are the symptoms of Heat Stroke?

What can you do if you suspect your pet has heat stroke?

Prevention is better than cure.

Dangerous Festive Foods

As the festive season approaches, be sure to keep the following foods all to yourself… and well away from your pets!

Chocolate

Alcohol

Grapes and raisins

Xylitol

Fatty foods

Nuts

Onions

Cooked bones

Corn on the cob

Pet-friendly treats

Diary of a War Dog

Take a "Chill Pill"

How we try to manage stress, fear and anxiety in animals coming to the vets.

What happens with a fearful/stressed/anxious animal at the vets?

How can we make a nervous pet's visit to the vet less stressful?

What is the "Chill Protocol" and what do the medications do?

What is the goal of using the Chill Protocol?

Castration "Implants" - what is it all about?

What is "Castration" and why is it performed?

Is the castration permanent?

Are people happy with the outcome?

Are there any circumstances where you do NOT recommend castration?

What about the "non-surgical" implant?

It is a suitable alternative in the long-term?

How do you suggest I proceed if I have concerns about castration for my dog?

How do I go ahead arranging an implant?

Animals in War

They served too...

Horses

Dogs ﻿

Birds ﻿

Other animals played their part too...

A little known fact...

Hope for the future

COVID Catch-Up Offer

Why is this a problem for the animals?

Why is this a problem for our practice?

So, why the Special Offer?

What if have health concerns about my pet?

Pet owners warned about microchipping scam

Where can I check the list of authorised pet databases?

Kennel Cough in Dogs

What is Kennel Cough?

What the symptoms of Kennel Cough?

Are there any other signs?

Is Kennel Cough Dangerous?

What is Heat Stroke?

Dogs

Birds

Report suspicious behaviour

M edications